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57 $t 
Cop. P 
‘Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by 


In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, st Washington, 











the Geographical Societies and Chambers of 
of Parig, Italy, and Marseilles, for the great 
tho Medals awarded to me}—to the Geo- 
Sovieties of Antwerp, Berlin, Bordeaux, 
‘Bremen, Hamburg, Lyons, Marseilles, Montpellier, and 

tho booour of appointment nv Officer de Vastruce 
femee; Gold Madalat of tho Geograph Sues of 
al Marlo; iver Medal tthe Chamber of 
Torin, Nordea, 

View, ds. 

ilaemeatiteniss talkers cratlie-acd 
work, Mr. B, Weller and Mr. E, Stanford, 

May 27, 1878, 



zy meni om wmined = Asian "dal = 

‘baulked of hin loot — Poor Wall 
Tirewles out again — 





1 ava ja Me deers 



eiliscovered by the soargttie 3 American correspondent. 
Th that memorable journey, Mr. Stanley displayed the 
‘best qualities of an African traveller; and with no 
Inoonsiderable resources at his disposal to reinforce 
his it erie ‘aoquaintanes: with th ‘the conditions of 
African travel, it may be hoped that very important 
results will accrue from this undertaking to the 
advantage of ecienco, humanity, and ielston 

‘Two weeks were allowed me for ‘boats— 
a yawl, a gig, and a barge—for giving orders for pon 
toona, and ee equipment, guns, ammunition, 
rope, wadiller, medical stores, and provisions; for making 
investments in an for native chiefs; for obtaining 
scientific instruments, stationery, co. do. The barge 
was an invention of my own, 


Tt was to be 40 fect long, 6 fect beam, and 30 
nches deop, of Spanish cedar 2 inch thick. When 
finished, it was to be separated into five tection», each 
of which should be 8 feet long, If the sections should 
be over-weight, they were to be agnin divided into halves 
for groster facility of carringe. ‘The construction of this 
novel bont was undertaken by Mr. James Messenger, 
Doat-builder, of Teddington, near London. ‘The pon- 
toons were made by Cording, but though the workman- 
ship was beautiful, they were not a success, because the 

ofliciency of the hoat for all purposos rondered 
them unnecessary, However, they were not wasted. 

at = 

acience of 

the source of the western 
more to the north and 8° more 
one for the eastern branch ; 

“We cannot here enter into any disquisition re- 
garding the discrepancies that appear 

valuable, and 48 bearing upon the pri dizo0} 
4 hhical knowledge, earliest period 
ese sci oa tn cerbus ce sented iherot 

i ie 


of pure white sand, Entering this channel, 
J traced it until farther progress 

Lake Tangnnika, as will be seen, upon Lieutenant 
on’s departure, had its entire const-ine described, 

pt tho extrome south end, the mouth of the Lufuvu 
on of coast lying betweon Kasengé Island 

‘northern point of Ubwari, aout 140 miles in 

Sais cutstak oie Gt tee coat ellpead 
‘yisk tr) fa the Chimbesi baore it enters 

of *Livingstone’s Lost d 
“very suceinetly what knowledge he has 
Pomuricitietmee of hin 
pe Te-then 

S.W. and W. till it reaches 11° 8. Lat, and Long. 
6 ie ere it forms Lake leerdegies i ad 



the small maps. attached to this volume, explains and 
illustrates the several geographical problems left by 
my predecessors. I now propose to describe how these 
problems were solved, and the incomplete discoveries 
of Burton and Speke, Speke and Grant, and Doctor 
Livingstone were finished, and how we sighted the 
lake Muta N’zigé, by its broad arm, which I have called 
Beatrice Gulf, by a comprehensive exploration, lasting, 
from sea to sen, two years eight months and twenty 
days; the results of which are to be found embodied 
in these two volumes, entitled: ‘ Through the Dark 
Continent ; the Sources of the Nile, around the Great 
Lakes of Africa, and down the “ Livingstone” to the 
Atlantic Ocean.’ 


(From a photograph ly Afr, Buchanan, of Notsl) 


Arsval ot Zauaftar Ilan Tio of Zanzibar — The torn of Zarate 

tn rondlatendt and buildings —'Thw One Coora-ant treo awl Use rl 

tor Seecon an rca of gree forth Journey — Rewanee 

‘of Penge Taryhosh—Thusy mornings Plewant rides and quiet 

wou. Twevry-kranr montha had elapsed between my de- 
$23 parture from Zanaibaraftor tho disoovory of Livingstone 
and my re-arrival on that island, September 21, 1874. 

‘The woll-remembered undulating ridges, and the 
geatle slopes clad with palms and mango trees bathed 
in warm vapour, soomod in that tranquil droway state 
which at all times any portion of tropical Afric 
presents nt first appearance. A pala blue sky covered 
the hazy land and sleeping wea ns we steamed through 




“i Pie 


= nd this ccmetery is to be seen the muddy head of 
2 hGuses inlet, between which and the padre of 

Yai Stangani there Ties only this antique sand bar, about 

two hundred yards in breadth. Ou the crest of the 
sand bar stands the One Cocoa-nut Palm which has 
given its name to this locality. Sometimes this spot 
is also known aa the “fiddler's” grave. It is the 
breathing-place of the hard-worked and jaded European, 
and here, seated on one of the plastered tombs near the 


base of the One Cocoa-nnt Palm, with only a furtive 


From the roof of the house, if we take the “ last 
resource" alrewdy mentioned, we have a view of the road- 

| ‘night over the con 
acne are still bright flushes of 
old be uiverenl blackness?’ And maybe 
say—"As thoso colours now brighten 
‘west, so my hopes brighten my dark 


Berri Targhash — This prohibition of alavery, charvotor anil reforms — 
‘rouly with Brith Government by Sir Bartle Prem — Tramways 
the now of Aftiea—Arute in the interior —Arabn in Zanzibar — 
Mtuma or MgwanaY— ‘Tho Wangwana, their vices wnt virtues — 
‘A Mgveaun’s highest ausbltion—the Wanyaanwert "the coming rae,” 

Tan foot-note nt the bottom of this pago will explain all 
that need be known by tho general reader i ection 
with tho geography of the island of Zanzibar.® Any 
ftudent who wishos to make the island a special study 
will find books dealing most minutely with the 
subject at all great libraries. Without ventnring, 
therefore, into more details than I have nlready given 
in ‘How I found Livingstone, I shall devote this 

© “The fort of Zanzibar ia in 8 lat. O° 9° 6" and 1 tong, 39° 10 wa." 
Kant African Ut 





ast. chapter to the Sultan of Zanzibar—Barghash bin 
Swi Savid—the Arabs, the Wangwana, and the Wanya- 
* mwezi, with whose aid the objects of the Anglo- 
American Expedition were attained. 
It is impossible not to feel a kindly interest in 
Prince Barghash, 
and to wish him 
complete success: 
in the reforms he 
is now striving 
to bring about in 
his country. Here 
we seo an Arab 
prince, edueated 
in the strictest, 
echool of Islam, 
and accustomed to 
regard the black 
natives of Africa 
asthe lawful proy 
of conquest or 
lust, and fair ob- 
jects of barter, 
suddenly turning 
round at the re~ 
quest of European 
and becoming one 
of the most active 
surety naamcann, opponents of the 
slave-trade — and 
the spectacle must necessarily create for him yaany well- 
wishers and friends, 
Though Prince Barghash has attributed to. myself 

Hi o thrives Iuxuriantly in Pemba, and sogar-cane 

grow everywhere, Caoutchoue’ renting unde- 
veloped in the maritime belts of woodland, and the 
cnoia forests, with their wealth of gums, are tearly 
untouched. Rice issown on the Rufiji banks, and yields 
abundantly ; eotton would thrive in any of tho 1i 

millet, Indian corn, and many others, the cultivation 
of which, though only in «a Tinguid way, the natives 
understand. "The cattle, coffee, and goats of the interior 
await alyo the energetio man of capital and the com- 
mercial gonius. 

First, however, the capitalist must find means of 
carriage, otherwise ho will never conquer African 
culties, Cutting roads through jungles, and employing 
Wwaggons, ate tore temporary conveniences, requiring 
great outlay, patience, and constant reinforcement of 
work and energies, Almost as fast as the land is 
cleared, it is covered again—go prolific is the soil—with 
tall wild grassos of the thicknoss of cane, and one season 
is sufficient to undo the work of months of the pioneer. 
Cattle die, tormented out of life by the fies or poisoned 
by tho rank grasses; natives perish from want of proper 

nourishment, and, while suffering from fatigne and 
debility, are subject to many fatal disease, 

A trainway is the one thing thatis needed for Africa, 
All other benefits that can be conferred by contact with 


ox who call themselves Arabs, By 
miscegenation the Arabs of the latest 
rapidly losing their rich colour 

fine complexions, while the descondants of the 
Avabs of the first migration are now deteriorated 80 
much that on the const they can senrcely be distinguished 
from the aborigines. While many of the descendants 
of the old settlers who came in with Seyyid Sultan, still 
cling to their homesteads, farms, and plantations, and 
acquire sufficient competence by the cultivation of 
cloves, cinnamon, oranges, cocoa-nut palms, sugnr-cane, 
nnd other produce, a great number have emigrated into 
the ae ‘to form new colonies, Hamed Ibrahim has 
been eighteon years in Karagwé, Muini Kheri has 
beon thirty Ati in Sultan bin Ali has heen 
twenty-five years in Unyanyembé, Muini Dugumbi 
Inns been eight years in Nyongywé, Jumn Merikani tna 
been seven yerra in Rua, and a number of other 
prominent ‘Arabs may be cited to prove that, though 
‘they themselves firmly believe that they will return to 
the const some day, there are too many reasons for 
believing that they never will. 

None of the Arabs in the interior with whom Tam 
Acquainted evor proceeded thither with the definite in- 
tention of colonisstion. Some wore driven thither, by 
falso hopes of nequiring rapid fortunes by the purchase 
of slaves and ivory, and, perceiving thut there were 

‘worse places on earth than Attica, preferred to remain 
there, to facing the odium of file, Others borrowed 
sums on trust from eredulous Hindis and Banyans, 
having failed in the venture now prefer to endure 

4 i 


‘The conduct of an Arab is Tn 
ce gentleman: vehi i 
* in and 

‘upon the observation of the 

wi Arabs let us regard the Wangwanay just 
after | ig the condition and chnracter 

One of them lately 
said that the n mows neither love nor affection; 
another that he is simply the “link” between the 
simian and the Buropean, Another sys, “ The wretches 
take n trouble and display an ingenuity in opposition 
and disobedience, in perversity, annoyance, and vi 
which rightly directed would make them invaluabl 
Almost all have boon severe in their strictures on the 
negro of Zanzibar. 

‘The origif of the Mgwann or Freewan may be briefly 
told, When the Arabs conquered Zanvibar, they 
found the black subjects of the Portuguese to be of 
two, clussea, Watuma (slaves) and Wangwana (free 
men). The Freemon wore very probably black people 
who had either purchnsed their freedom by the swvinga 
of their industry or were made free upon the death of 
their masters: these begat children who, being born 
out of Londage, were likewise free. Arab rulers, in 
classifying their subjects, perceived no great difference 
in physique or geueral appearance between those who 
were slaves und those who were free, both classes 
‘Velonging originally to the sume negro tribes of the 

ese he 


Cohen at ge a ny 
eazellencowpon wich he and his ruc prio them- 

can fairly appreciate the capabilities 

of | ‘the Zanzibar negro. The traveller should not forget 

ihe origin of his ow ‘mice, the condition of the Briton 

before St, Augustine visited his country, but should 

‘rather recall to mind tho first state of the “wild 

Caledonian,” and tho orij = ‘ciroumstances and sur 
seeds of Primitive 

jes Bacarer cath onr pride may 

Be ian coe that, at the earliest, 

of his existence, man could have been but little 

tinguished from the brute, His pillow was a stone, 

his roof was the shadow of a widesprending treo, or 

some dark cavern, which also served aa n refuge against 

wild beasts,” 

aguin, in his chapter on the “Iron Epoch,” he 
notes how “Frown the day when iron was first placed 
‘at man's disposal, civilization began to make its longest 
strides, and as the working of this motal improved, 
dominion of man—his faculties and his <atelloct 
ivity—likowise enlarged in the ame propor 
tion.” And at the end of a most admirable book, he 
counsels the traveller, to it, lest thy pride cause 

thee to forget thy own ori, 

Being, I hope, free from prejudices of caste, colour, 
race, or nationality, and endeavouring to pass what 
I believe to be a just judgment upon the negroes of 
Zanvilwr, T find that they are a people just emerged 
into the Iron Epoch, and now thrust forcibly under 
the notice of nations who have left them behind by 
tho improvements of over 4000 years, ‘They possess 
beyond doubt all tho vicos of a people still fixed deeply 
in barbarism, but they understand to the fall what and 
how low such a state is; it is, therefore, a duty imposed 
‘upon us by the religion we profess, and by the sacred 



wars, trained as mechanics, cbtain a livelihood by repairing 
fooler ouskots, manufacturing knives, belts, and accoutre- 
Buiter rents, or by carpentoring and shipbuilding. There is 
a class of Wangwans living at Ngambu, in the small 
gardens of the interior of the island, and along the 

coast of the mainland, who prefer the wandering life 
offered to them by the Arab traders and scientific 

(Prom a photograph) 

expeditions to boing subject to the caprice, tyranny, 
and meanness of wall o proprietors. ‘They 
complain that the Arabs are haughty, grasping, 
and exacting; that they nbuee them and pay: them 
badly; that, if they sock justico at tho hands of the 
Cadis, judgment, somehow, always goes against them, 

i wonknesies, many fine qualities, 
ditions, ely incline! to despair and 

and roused to @ courageous 
and fight like heroes. It 
such men whether their worst or best qualities shall 


Eraieea Ue ayodher aus; somiog Sito, pores Boar the 

I interior of Afries, who, though of sterner nature, 

Pair neater tnoedy bs hy ae Sahar exci) BSgaae 
greater favourites than the Wangwnna, T refer tothe 

| the Wangwana, they are not 90 amenable to discipline 
; ag the Intter, While explorors would in the present 
state of noquaintance profer the Wangwana as escort, 
the Wanyamwezi are far superior as porters. Their 
greater freedom from disenscs, their groter strength 
and endurance, the pride they take in their profession 
of porters, prove them born travellers of incalculable 
nae and Lenefit to Africa. If kindly treated, I do not 
now more docile aud good-natured creatures, But 

ipline must not be strict, until they have had 
opportunities of understanding their employer's nature 
and habits, and of comprehending that discipline does 
‘not mean abuse, Their courage a fle repeatedly 
proved under their Napoleonic leader Mirambo, in many 
‘a woll-fonght field against the Arabs and Wangwana, 
‘Their skill in war, tenacity of purpose, and determi- 




nation to defend the rights of their elected chief ims, 
against forcigners, have farnished themes for song {te 
to the bards of Central Africa. Tippu-Tib has led 600 

of theeo men through distant Bisa and the plaing 

of Rua: Juma Merilkani has been escorted by them 

fnto the hoart of the regions beyond the Tanganika: 
Khamis bin Adallah commanded a large force of them 

in his search for ivory in the intra-luke countries, ‘the 
English discoverer of Lake Tanganika nnd, finally, 1 
myself have boon equally indebted to them, both on 
my first and last expeditions, 

From their numbers, and their many excellent 
qualities, 1 am Jed to think that the day will come 
when they will be regarded as something better than 
the ‘best of pagazia”; that they will be esteemed aa 
the good subjects of rome enlightened power, who will 
train them up as the nucleus of a great Aftican nation, 
as powerful for the good of the Dark Continent, ws they: 
threaten, under the present condition of things, to be 
for its evil. 

=Signing tho coveanta—" On rat of 

son-te —Loding the dows — Vale! — Towne the Dark 
‘Ir is a most sobering employment, the organizing of 
"an African expedition, You are constantly en, 
mind and body; now in casting up accounts, and now 
travelling to and fro hurriedly to receive messengers, 
inspecting purchnsos, bargaining with keen-eyed, relent- 
leas Hindi merchants, writing memornnda, haggling 
‘over extortionate prices, packing up a multitude of 
«mall utilities, pondering upon your lista of articles, 
wanted, purchased, and unpurchased, groping about 
in the rucemes of ‘a highly exercised imagination for 
what you ought to purchase, and cannot do without, 

i ing, arranging, assorting, and packing, 
And tl der a tomperature of 95° Fuhr, 

Tn the midat of nll this terrific, high-pressure exercise 
arrives tho first batch of applicants for employment, 
For it has long ago been bruited abroad that I am 
ready to enlist all able-bodied human beings willis 
to carry a load, be they Wangwana or Wanyamwezi, 
Wagalla, Somali, Wasagsra, Wayow, Wajinilo, 
Wasoxzo, or Wazaramo, Ever since I arrived at 
Yauvibar, since which date I have been absent 


Pt Dales onl brkaew onl be entered soi, tu 

Ulimengo, and 
hunter in chief of the Search and hori pie 

tions, received n gold ring to encircle one of his thick 
black and a silver chain to cope round his 
‘neck, which eaused his month to expand gratefully. 
a who was soon reminded of the pees accident 
ih Livingston's Journal in the muddy waters of the 
was endowed with a munificent gift 
aoe won sch over to my service beyond fear of 
Twibery, Manwa Sera, the redoubtable rebar 3 
“hokey Grant to Manwa Sera—the royal fi 
iL by the hot pursuit of tho Arabe—the ender 
of my second caravan in 1871, the chief of the party 
sent to Unynnyemb¢ to the assistance of Livingstone in 
1872, and now appointed Chiof Captain of the Auglo- 
Atorican Expedition, was rondoved temporarily speech 
lees with gratitude because I had snapended a splendid 
{jet necklace from his neck, and ringed one of his fingers 
‘with a heavy seal ring. ‘The historical Mabruki Speke, 
called by one of my predecessors “ Mabraki the Bulle 
hoaded,” who has each time in the employ of European 
art condnoted himself with matchless fidelity, and 
listinguished for his hawk-eyed gunrdivusbip of their 
and interests, exhibited extravagant rapture nt 
‘tho testimonial for past services bestowed on him; while 
the valiant, faithful, sturdy Chowpereh, the man of 
manifold virtues, waa rewarded for his former worth 
with » silver dagger, gilt bracelet, and earrings, His 
wife was also made happy with a suitable gift, and the 
heir of the Chowpereh estate, a child of two yenrs, 
was, at his father’s urgent request, rendered mife by 
+ vaccine from any attack of the smallpox during our 
absence in Africa, 
All grout enterprises require n preliminary dee 

4 x 

te Aa nearly three years to reach Ujiji, it is true, 
iber, I was but sixteen months from 

have not ie to live in Africa, T have tied bas 
to seo those rivers and Jakes, and after T hin 

them to return home.” “Ah, but you know ‘the old old 
master, Livingstone,” rejoined Hamoidah, who had fol 
Jowed the veteran traveller nearly eight years, “said 
he was only going for two years, and you know that he 
never came back, but died there." “That is true enough, 
but if L were quick on the first journey, am I likely to 
he slow now? Am I much older than I was then? 
Am T less strong’? Do I not know what travel ia now? 
Was I not like a boy then, and am I not now a man? 
‘You remember while going to Ujiji L permitted the guide 
to show the way, but when we were returning who 
wns it thnt led the way? Was it not I, by menns of 
that little compnss which could not lio like the guide?” 
“Ay, true, master, true every word!" “ Very well, 
then lot us finish tho shauri, and go, ‘To-morrow we 
will maki proper greement before the consul ;" and 
in Scriptural phrase, “they forthwith arose and did as 
thoy wore commanded.” 

‘Upon receiving information from the coast that there 
‘was a very large number of men waiting for me, I 
became still more fastidious in my choice, But with 
all my care nnd gift of selection, I wns mortified to 
discover that many faces and characters had bafiled the 

rigorous scrutiny to which [ hod subjected them, and 

4 i 

vas delivered with period accents 
ay res, which pt a effect 
Sletoel audience who Tistened pate and 

otion Rilatipbér aearred Mocana’wns atkiowen 
’ much abused and very munch mia 
hia serviecs were accopted, and as he 
‘be an influential man, he was appointed a 

= Maxtor” 

‘that he wns « ruffian of the worst sort, and ee 

Bee ewer of Devaar nd experienced great relief 
whon they heard that the notorious Msonva was about 

to bid farewell for a season to the scene of so many of 
hia wild exploits, Msonna was only ono of of 
his kind, but I have given in detail the manner of his 
enlistment that my position may be better understood. 
Soon after my return from the Rufiji delta, the: 
B.I,S.N. Company's steamer Zuphrates had brought 
the sectional exploring boat, Lady Alice, to Zanzibar. 
Excoedingly anxious for the portability of the sections, 
LT bad them at once weighed, and great were my 
vexation and astonishment when I discovered that four 
of the sections weighed 280 lbs, each, and thnt one 
tae 3101bs.! She was, it is true, a marvel of 
workmanship, and an exquisite model of a boat, auch, 
indeed, as few builders in England or America could 
rivals but in hor prosent condition her carriage through 
the jungles won necessitate a pioneer force a hundred 
strong to clear the impediments and obstacles on the 

While almost plunged into despair, I was informed 
that thre way a very lovee English carpenter, named 
Ferris, about to leave by the Euphrates for England. 

ly made acquainted with my 

difficulty, and for a “consideration” promised, after a 
personal inspection of the boat, to defer his departure 
‘one mouth, and to do his utmost to make the sections 
te rtable without lessening her efficiency, When the 
it was exhibited to him, I explained that the narrow- 

ness of the path would make her portage absolutely 


Fre a myself, Sir, base 
20} » bate. 
"aks yous favour, which 26 dou 

at Your service with the intention 
what my old father and our friends 

ny Ung about 18 inches square, 

and after pattern that Mr. 

procured for them. Whether the complicated 
red, .blue, white, were armnged properly, 


‘it was finished, though ft was bet the size of a Indy's 
handkerchief, they manifested much delight. 

Zanzibar possesses its “millionaires” also, and one 
of the richest merchants in tho town is Torya Topan 
—a self-made man of Hindostan, singularly honest 
and just; a dévout Muslim, yet liberal in his ideas; 
a sharp business man, yet chatitable, I made Turya’s 


acqunintance in 1871, and the righteous manner in 
lich he thon dealt by me caused me now to proceed 
to him again for the same purpose as formerly, ¥ 
sll me cloth, cottons, and kauikis, at reasonable prices, 
and nceept my bills on Mr. Joseph M. Lavy, of the 
Daily Telegraph. 

Honest Jota, as formerly, was employed ws tay 
‘vakeel to purchase the various coloured cloths, fine 
“and coarse, for chicts and their wives, us well ua 


“ging tho contac ac dil rs 

ived an advance of 20 dollars, or four months’ pay, and. 

youth 10 dollars, or four months’ pay. Ration money 

paid them from the time of ret enlistment, at 

rate of 1 dollar per week, up to the day wo loft the 
Lint of cloths, bonds, wire, a, and thelr prices, me Appoudis, 


“nay the 

paseod, and ceremoniously we lind biddon adieu to the 
Beep and courteous Acting British Consul, Qaptain 
William F, Pridesux, and his accomplished wifo,* to 
friendly and amiable Dr. James Robb and Mrs, Robb, 
to Dr. Riddle, and the German and French Consuls, 
Seyyid Barghawh bin Sayid received my thanks for his 
Seat iy ae ble nae Alin g Riadnoms and toy aiocere 
. ever more universal! wh Za 
items ctw bats ere macs dicen tal ip ts eee 
scauunity than washers. 


ZEB s 




(From a photograph by Mr. Buchanan, of Natal. Boe page 78.) 

emotions by his own feclings, and would accept the 
lame effort at their expression as though he had 
listened to the most voluble rehearsal of thanks. 

A wave of my hand, and the anchors wers hove up 
and laid within chip, and then, hoisting our Jateon 
sails, we bore away westward to launch ourselves into 
the arme of Fortune. Many wavings of kerchiefs and 
hats, parting signals from white hands, and last long 
looks ut friendly white fnces, final confused impressions 

4 = 

‘ble before launching out into the 

Second. The natives of those maritime villages 
jacoustomed to have their normally languid and peace- 
life invaded and startled by the bustle of foreigners 
arriving by sea and from the continent, Arab traders 
for the interior and lengthy native caravans 

from Unyamwezi, ‘Third, An expedition not fully 
reornited to its necessary strength at Zanzibar may be 
easily reinforced at these ports by volunteers from 
‘native caravans who wre desirous of returning to their 
homes, and who, day by day, along the route, will 
siegeiein towards it until the liat ia full and complete, 
These, then, were the principal reasons for my 
selection of Bagamoyo as tho initial point, from whence, 
‘afior inoculating the various untamed spirits who had 



But within three hours Bagamoyo was in a forment. 
“The white man has browsht all the robbers, ruffians, 
and murderers of Zanzibar to take possession of the 
town,” was the rumour thot ran wildly through all the 
strects, lanes, courts, und bazaars, Men with bloody 
faces, wild, bloodshot eyes, bedraggled, rumpled and 
torn dresses, recled np to our orderly and nearly silent 
‘quarters clamouring for rifles and aramuni Arabs 
with drawn swords, and sinewy Baluchis with match- 
Tooks and tinder ready to be ignited, camo up threatening, 
and, following them, 4 mixcellancous rabble of excited 
men, while, in the background, seethed a mob of 
frantio women and mischievous children. 

“What is tho mutter?” I asked, scarcoly knowing: 

4 — 

A score of people of both sexes advanced towards 
mo with their complaints, and it seemed as though 
silence could never be restored, but by dint of threaten- 
ing to leave the burzah from’ sheer despair, quictness 
was restored, It is unnecessary to detail the several 

charges | made against them, or to describe the manner 
of conviction, but, after three hours, peace reigned in 
ae once more, and over twenty of the Wan- 
and impounded in the several 
Ay if the house, with a dozen of their comrades 
standing gunrd over them. 
To avoid a repetition of this terrible scene, I des 
iched & messenger with a polite request to the 
erat, Shoikh Mangur bin Suliman, that he would 
arrest and punish all disorderly Wangwana in my 
service, as justice should require, but Iam sorry to say 
that the Wali (governor) took such advantage of this 
request that few of the Wangwana who showed their 
faces in the streets next day escaped violence, Acting 
on the principle that desperate discases require des- 
perate remedies, over thirty had been chained and 
beaten, and many others had escaped abuse of power 
only by desperate flight from the myrmidons of tho 
now vengeful sheikh, 
Another message was therefore sout to the Governor, 



era EE 

by Livi 
and of Lake Nyassa and Shirwa, It was 

Rey. Messrs. Proctor, Scudamore, Burrup, and Rowley, 
‘These devoted gentlemen reached the Zambezi river 
in Fel 1861, 

When the Universities Mission met Livingstone, 
then engaged in the practical work of developing 
the discovery of the Zambezi and other neighbouring 
‘waters, a consultation was held as to the best locality 
for mission work to begin at. ‘he Bishop and his 
followers were advised by Livingstone to ascend the 
river, and march thence overland to some 

and as much sickness had broken ont on board, the 
Mission sailed to the Comoro Islands to reornit. In 
July 1861 they reached the foot of the Murchison 
Cataracts on the Shiré, Soon after, whilo proceeding 
overland, they encountered a caravan of slaves, whont 
thoy liberated, with a zeal that was commendable 
“h impolitic, Subsequently, other slaves were 
detained from the caravans until the number 


E 4 




With all my soul I wish him and it success, and while 
he lives, provided he is supported, there need be no 
fear that tho Mission will resume that hopeless position 
from which he, and he alone, appears to have reacued it, 
From the same source that the Universities Missions 
have drawa thelr pupils, namely, the youthful victims 
of the slavo-trad, her Majesty's Consul has supplied to 
a itextent the French Catholic Missions at Zanzibar 
Bagamoyo. ‘The mission in the island which tas 

* Boo fHlustrotion on. page U4, 

a ~~ 

pe eee eel rene wot crave to be understood 

lied. A barbarous man Peper 
mi ‘of ernvings for eomething that he 
‘eannot describe. He is Ii arr enya 
wequired the fuculty of articulation, The missionary 
discovers the barbarian almost. stupefied with brutish 

ignorance, with the instincts of a man in him, but yet 
in the life beast. Instead of attempting to 
be 6 of this practical human being, he 

and to explain to him that he is a frail creatuee requiring 
‘to be fed with brend, and not with a stone, 

My oxpericnce and study of the pagan prove to me, 
howaver, that, if the miasionary can chow the poor 
materialist that religion is allied with substantial benefits 
aand improvement of his graded conten, the task to 
which he is about to devote himself will be rendered 
comparatively ensy. For the African once brought 
in contact with the European becomes docile enough : 
ho is awed by o consciousness of his own immense 
inferiority, and imbued with a vague hope that he 
may algo rio in time to the level of this superior being 

icy NG 


demands tha af conveying 1 

known as the boat's crew, 
tind to be distinguished by me above all others, except 
the chiofs—they are armed with Snider rifles, with 
their respective accoutrements. ‘The boat-carriers are 
matin ate ure and 
strength, they are 
ts‘ bearers of 
loads, having resigned 
‘ignoble profession 
an ihn i in Zanzibar to 
carry sections of the first 
Eurvpe-made boat that 
over flosted on Lakes 
Victoria and Tanganika 
and the extreme sources 
of the Nile and the 
gstone; To each 
tion of the boat there 
are four men, to relieve 
‘one another in couplen. 
They get higher pay 
than even the chiefs, 
‘except the chief captain, 
Manwa Sera, and, be- 
sides receiving double 
rations, have the privi~ 
(Prom pogo, lege of taking their 
wives along with them, There are six riding ames 
also in the expodition, all eaddled, cme for ench of the 
Europenns—the two Pococks, Barker, and myself—and 
two for the sick: for the Intter there are also three of 
Seydel’s net hammocks, with six men to act as a kind 
of ambulance party, 

‘above us, p 
ean and duri 
firat march could 

“wa and admis fit, 
peed sini 


tawny, thirsty valley oflor no inducements, 
of travel push on towards the river 
nt, where they anay obtain rest and 



mailing their folly in leaving Zanzibar, 
them to rest a while and then to come 


= eae ee 

eee Aagettl nies may Shey Seaaee 

‘return them, 
~ Upon mustering the people, and inquiring into thelr 
affairs, it wna discovered that a number of 

by their ‘own confussions rnnat 
pe iy received by the Sulten and the Arabs of Yani 
itwasno part of my sayy, Leonsideed ‘unauthorized 
ns I was by any government, to be even a passive agent 
fn this novel mothod of liberating slaves, ‘Tho order 
was therefore given that these wouen should roturn 
with the soldiers, but as this did not agree with cither 




‘TE EAPEDETION ay maar. 

(From a photograph.) 


On tho marh—Congorido to Rubuti—The hunting-grounde of 
Kitangeli— Shooting aba —“Juck’s™ first prino — Lntorviewo 
by Hons —Geology of Mpwapwa —Dudama —*" The ood-gntes of 
heaven" oponed— Dismal pefloetions—Tho Salina—A conspiracy 
igcorered — Devertiony—'The path lost=Starvation and deaths 
—Troublo imminent — Grain bu'x plundered — Situation slaplornble 
= Bicknoss in the camp —Ealwurd Pocoele taken ill—2ie death aod 

ast Tue line of march towards the interior, which, after due 

Pree, SoUAiderution, we adopted, runs parallel to the routes 
known to us by the writings of many travellers, but 
extends as far ns thirty miles north of the most 
northerly of thom, 

and the water of which T thought 
ing. I certainly imagined T felt in 
of the day after I had taken 

the 8rd of December, we came to the Mundi 
river, « tributary of the Wami, which divides Nguru 
country from Umgom. SimbaeMwenni, or Simba- 
iunyi- Liou Lord—not the famous man farther 
aouth—owns five villages in this neighbourhood. He 
was generous, and gratified us with a gift of a sheep, 
some flour, and plantains, accepting with pleasure some 
‘cloth ia return. 
Tho Wa-Ngurn speak the same dialect as the Wase- 
gubha and Wasagara, and affect the same ornaments, 

— =) 

“4490 fect, 



: $$} 


x ‘and belild an extensive plain, stretching north-west and 
om 4 wont, with browsing hows of noble game, Camping on 

ite vorgo, betweon a humpy hill and some rocky Knolls, 
near a beautiful pond of crystal-clear water, I 
ceeded with my gun-bearer, Billali, and the notorious 
Muennn, in the hope of bringing down something for 
the Wangwann, and was heartily encouraged thereto 
by Frank and Ted Pocock. 


‘The plain was broader than I had judged it by 
the eye from the crest of the hill whence we had 
first sighted it. It was not until we had walked 
briskly over w long strotch of tawny grass, crushed 
by sheer foreo through a brambly jungle, and trampled 
down a path through olumps of slender cane stalks, 
that we carne at Inst w of a small herd of zebras. 
‘Thesé nnimale are go quick of scent and car, and so 
vigilant with their eyes, thut, across nn open space, it 



lion, and a few reddish hairs to 
something which hnd been eaten 


aeepatttan real 



clumps soon after 

‘threads over its face, 
is abundant in large 



Bikoka, and this feature of the landscay 
namea bang 
~ Along the base and slopes of the mountains, and in its 



aro clothed with only gras ond small?" 

valleys, largo treew are very numerous, massing, 
Sieegites ioe kee tin cates ean 


haa the tamarind, sycamore, cottonwood, and 
@ collection of villages denominated by: 
thia title lies widely scattered on either side of the 

foun cauy ar arwarwa. (trom a photograph.) 

Mpwapwa stream, at the base of the southern slope of 
& Tange of mountains that extends ins« sinuous line 
from Ohunyu to Ugombo. I call it a range because 
itappeared to be one from Mpwapwa; but in reality 
it is simply the northern flank of a deep indentation 
fm the great mountain chain that extends from 
Abyssinia, or even Suez, down to the Cape of Good 
At the extreme eastern point of this indentation 
from the western side lies Lake Ugombo, just twenty> 
“four miles from Mpwapwa. 

of the tmek. We then had detectives posted 

before dawn, several hundred yards away from 

Biotest, chotorers Bidden @ iota walt in te bib, 
until the expedition hud started, and in this manner 
we sncceeded in repressing to some extent the disposition 
to dosert, and arrested very many men on the point of 
posers but area this bier not Baie had 
abandoned us before Sy dt a taking: with 
ata ee strain hey tad i Machen their 
guns, on which our ty might de] 

Several feeble men and women also had to be left 
behind, and it wns evident that the very wariest 
Pees parece nee ns pecrle to their duties, The 

of treatment and abundance of provisions daily 
tri ee alike insufficient to induce such faithless 
natures to bo loyal. However, we persisted, and an 
‘often as we failed in one way, we tried another. Had 
all these mon remained’ loyal to their contract und 
we unl pare been too strong for any force 
to attack us, as oir numbers must necessarily have 
commanded respect in lands and among tribes where 
ouly power is respected. 

One day's march from Mpwapwa, the ronte skirting a 
browi arm of the Marenga Mkali desert, which leads to 
the Ugombo lake, brougbt us to Chunyu—an exposed 
and weak settlement, overlooking the desort or wilder+ 
ness separating Umgam from Ugogo. Close to our 
Fight towered the Usigara mountains, and on our 

OO | 

abandoned to elephants, lions, large game, and intract- 
ees natives. 

‘rainy senson nin earnest on the 23rd of 
thesia while we baited at Dudoma, and next 
we struggled through a pelting storm, during an eig! 
Bilea march oo ingohy sbeiplata’of which’ we fined 
already half submerged by rushing yellow stroams, 

‘The following sketch is a portion of a private letter 
toa friend, written on Christmuas Day at Zingeh :— Tam 
ina contre-pole tent, seven by eight. As it rained all 
day yesterday, the tent was set over wet ground, 


23: f 3 

‘the torribly wet weather and the searcity of 
n which we euler, we are compelled to undergo 
and wearisome task of haggling with 
amount of blaok-mail 

under such 
conditions as above described, would be ‘most perilous. 
Another of my dogs, ‘Nero, the retriever, is dead. 
Alas! all will die.” 
The next comp westward from Zingeh which we 
was at Jiweni, or the Stones, at an altitude 
above sea-level of 8160 feet; crossing on our march 
thres streams with a trend southerly to the Ruf. 
Formerly there had been n settlement here, but in one 
of the raids of the Wahurmba it had been swept away, 
Jeaving only such traces of man’s occupation as broken 
otiry, st shallow troughs in the rocks caused pro- 
bubly by generations of feruale grinders of corn. 

‘Through n scrubby jungle, all of which in past times 
had been cultivated, we marched from the “ Stones” to 
Kitalslo, the chief of which place became very friendly 
with me, and, to mark his delight at my leading a 
caravan to his country—the first, he hoped, of many 
more—he presented a fat ox to the Wangwana and 

‘The outskirts of Kitalalo are choked with growths of 
acacia, tamarisk, and gum, while clusters of dou palms 
are numerous, Turther west stretches the broad ph 
of Mizanza and Mukondoku, with its deceitful mirage, 
Lorbless and treeless expanse, nnd nitrous water. 

‘One Somali youth, Mohammed, deserted just eastward 
of Kitolalo, ond was never afterwards heard of, 


fis demeavour, and permitted ts to: proceed 
Siemans covering bactas aeeee 

name is Chalul, and ho is a brother of 

uni of Kitalalo, Unlike his nobler brother, he 
and unacrupulons, levies extortionate 
travellers, for which he never deigns to send 
t prevent in return, His people are numerous, 

oa ‘the peace, a2 his ay insist 
camp, and — tent and 

A conspiracy was discovered at this place, by which 
fifty men, who bnd firmly resolved to abscond, were pre 
-vonted from carrying out their intention by my securing 
‘the ringleaders and disarming their deluded followers, 

wore on the sick list, from fover, bate 

and rheumatism. Five succeeded in desert- 
ing with their guns and necoutrements, and two men were 
Toft at, Mukondoku almost blind. Indeod, to record ‘our 
ind our losses up to this date in full 
ire half of thie volume; but these 
alight hints will wuflico’ to show thnt the journey of 
an expedition into Africa is beset with troubles and 


Frank and Edward Pocock and Frederick Barker 
rendered me invaluable service while endeavouring to 
harmonize the large, unruly mob with its many eecen- 
tricand unnssimilnting natures, Quarrels were frequent, 
tometimes even dangerous, betwoen various members 
of the Expodition, and at such eritieal moments only 
did my personal interference become  imperatively 
necessary. Whnt with taking solar observations and 
making” ethnological notes, negotiating with chiefs 
about the tribute moneys and attending on the sick, 

time was occupied from morning until night. In 
naaition toall ‘hi strain on my own physical powers, 

sas mywilf fhequotl sick from fever, und wasted 
from lack of propor, nourishing food; and if the chief 
of an expedition be thus distressod, it may rendily be 

> | * = 

i farther y 
and ascended the already described “upland wall," 
where the aneroid at our camp indicated a heigit of 
8800 feot—or about 950 fect above the plain on which 
Mtiwi, Mwenna, and Mukondoku are situated... 

‘The lust night at Mtiwi was a disturbed one, The 
“floodgates of heaven” seemed literally opened for n 
period. After on hour's rainfall, 6 inches of water 
covered our camp, and a slow current ran southerly, 
Every member of the expedition was distressed, and 
‘even the Europeans, lodged in tents, were not exempted 
from the evils of the night, My tent walls enclosed a 
little pool, banked by boxes of eiores and ammunition. 
Tlearing cries outside, I lit a candle, and my astonish- 
ment was great to find that my bed was an island ina 
ehallow river, which, if it increased in depth and current, 
would assuredly curry me off south towards the Rufiji- 
My walking-boots were miniature barks, floating to 
and fro on a turbid tide seeking a place of exit to the 
dark world of waters without. My guns, lashed to the 
contre pole, were stock deep in water. But the most 
comical sight was presented by Jack and Bull, perched 
wick to back on the top of an ammunition-box, butting 
each other rearward, and snarling and growling for 
that scant portion of comfort. 

In the morning, I discovered my fatigue cap several 
yards outside the tent, and one of my boots sailing 
down south, The harmonium, resent for Mtesa, a 
large quantity of gunpowder, tea, rice, and sugar, were 
destroyed. Vengeance appeared to have overtaken us, 
At 10 A.s. the sun appeared, astonished no doubt at 

oe 4 - 

Pisa ak ap ee tavelled ovee lata whic al 
gradual uplift towards the north-west, nnd was covered 
with dense, low bush. Our path was ill-defined, as only 

small Wagogo caravans travelled to Urimi, but the 
guide assured us that he knew the road. In this dense 
‘bush there was not one large tree. It formed n vast 

of scrub and brush, tall enough to permit us to 
force our way among the lower branches, which were 60 
interwoven one with another that it sickens me almost 
to write of this day’s experience, Though our march 
was but ten miles, it occupied us as many hours of labour, 
elbowing and thrusting our way, to the injury of our 
bodies and the detriment of our clothing. We camped 
‘at 5 pas, near another small pool, at an altitude of 4350 
fect above the sea, ‘Tho next day, on tho afternoon of 
the 8th, we should have reached Urimi, und, in order 
to be certain of doing 20, marched fourteen miles to 
still another pool at a it of 4550 fect above sea 
lovel. Yet still we saw no limit to this immense bush- 
field, and our labours had, this day, been increased 
tenfold. Our guide bad lost the path carly in the 


“The inhabitants consisted. of only two families, who 
,. could not spnre us one ! We might as well have 
‘ for no sustenance could be 

in Unni fo the vila 
us the desired 

nites from Uveriveri to Suna was twenty-eight 
miles, ns we subsequently discovered. Pinched with 
hunger themselves, the forty volunteers advanced with 
tho resolution to reach Suna that night, ‘They were in- 
structed to purchase 800 Ibs, of grain, which would give 
a Tight Jond of 20 Ibs, to ech man, and urged to return 
ates possible, for the lives of their women and 
jends depended on their manliness, 
anaes Sora was also despatched with a party of 
twonty to hunt up the missing mon, Late in the 
afternoon they returned with the news that three of 
‘the missing men were dead. ‘They hnd lost the road, 
‘and, travelling along an clepeant track, had struggled 
on till they perished, of despair, hunger, and exhanstion. 
Biba nnd the donkey-boy, the ass and its loud of 
coffce, were never ween or heard of agai 
‘With tho and prospect of starvation impending over 
‘8, “ee ‘at various expedients to sustain life until 
the food purveyors should return, Early on the 
of the 10th, I travelled far and senrohed 
every lil sane pls for game, but though tracks were 
numerous, we fniled to sight a single head. The Wan- 
gwana aleo roamed about the forest—for the Uveriveri 
ridge was covered with fine myombo trees—in search of 
le roots and berries, and examined various trees to 

discover whether they afforded anything that could 
allay the grievous and bitter pangs of hunger. Some 




_ above sea-level. Towanls night I shot a wild boar 
; sar a duc, bn eovera of the Wangwans, being arot, 
Muslims, could not be induced to eat the pork. From 
the * Stones” we came to what we had called a plain 
from penne but what od eels from a marehy 
nature, more of a quagmire, It appeared to be a great 
resort for eluphants Areltanin ce tracks etal 

grent animals ron in all directions, Plunging into 
another jungle, we reappeared, after marching, ae 
miles, in the cultivated fields of Suna; and on 
Pecepats ings wu created 6 foe Si 
whenes wo had « view of the “Stones,” which valet 
loft in the morning, no other eminences being visible 
above what appeared a very ocean of bush. 

‘Next morning there was a strange and peculiar air 
‘of discontent, like a foreshadowing of trouble 
the natives who appeared beforo our camp, They ‘id 
not appear to-understand us. ‘They were seen hurrying 
their women and children away, and deserting their 
villages, while others hovered round our cxmp 
menacingly, carrying in their bonds a prodigious 
quantity of arms—spears, bows and arrows, and knob- 
sticks, Trouble seemed imminent. To prevent it, if 
possible, I stepped out to them with empty hands, 
motioned them to be scated, and, calling an interpreter, 
likewise unarmed, I attempted to explain the nature of 
‘our expedition nnd a fow of its objects, one of which 
of course was to reach Luke Victoria, To those elders 
who appeared to have most influence, I gave some 
bonds, ns an expression of good-will and friendship. But 
nothing seemed to bo of avail until, after close question- 
ing. L ascertained that they had a grievance. Some of 
the Wangwana, in their ravenous hunger, had plundered 
the grain huts, and stolen some chickens, The natives 
wero requested to come and point out the thieves, 
They did’so, and pointed their fingors at Alsassi, a 


to whom they refer civil causes. In time of war, how- 
‘ever, as we observed the after we arrived, they 
have for their elder, one who has 9 att si 
This fighting elder, to whom, I 

lees faa paid ead crises 0) fetta beg 
‘The species of beads called Kanyera were, it seemel 
to me, most in favour; brass wire was also in demand, 
‘but all cloth was rejected except the blue Kaniki. 

We halted four days at Suna, as our situation was 
deplorable. A constantly inereasingr sick list, culmi- 
nating in tho serious illness of Edward Pocock, the 
evident restlessness of the Wurimi at our presence, who 
most certainly wished us anywhere except in their 
country, and yet had no excuse for driving us by force 
from their neighbourhood, the insufficient quantity of 
food that could be purchased, and the growing impor- 
tunacy of the healthy Wangwana to be led away 
from such a churlish and suspicious people, plunged 
me in perplexity. 

We liad now over thirty men ailing. ( Some suffered 

from dysentery, others from fever, asthaa, chest diseases, 

SMa heart sishciea ¢Tings’were ‘weal; and rhamntier 

| had its viotims)- Edward Pocock, on the afternoon of 

the day wearrived at Suna, came to me, and complained 

of pain in the loins, a throbbing in the head—which I 

attributed to weariness, after our terribly long march— 

anda slight fevor. Isuggested to him that he had better 

lie down and rest. Before I retired, I reminded Frank, 

his brother, that he should give Edward some ulterative 

medicine. ‘The next day the young man was worse, His 

tongue was thickly coated with a dark fur, bis fice 

foavfully pallid, and he complained of wandering pains 

in his back and knees, of giddiness and great thirst, I 

| administered to him sweet spirits of nitre with orange 

| water, nnd a fow grains of ipecacuanha as an emetic, 

‘The fourth day he was delirious, and we were about to 

S0e7O in doy weal GL er 

Wangwana. Hundreds 

pacha eet cise 

Cs we been attacked, I 

destiny, we strug » thong 

‘ecemod ee or resolving hocasel ey Eat 
which oppressed our henrts. Weary, harassed, 
ble crvatures, we arrived nt Chiwyy, four 
‘mils from the gea, and catnped near the crest 
which was marked by ancraid as 5400 feet 

lovel of the ocean. 



| Falward Pocock was reported by Frank to have 
Chivyn. muttered in his delirium, *The master hns just hit it,” 
[ and to have said that be felt very comfortable. On 
ring at the camp, one of the bout sections was 
elevated above him as a protection from the eum, until a 
cool gras hut conld be erected. A stockade was being 
constructed by piling a thiek fence of brushwood xround 
a spacious circle, along which grss huts were fast being 
built, ian Frank entreated me to step to his brother's 
wide. rang to eae in time, however, to see 
Moti be last gasp. Frank gave a shriek of sorrow 
srl fio reall Sat the spirit of his brother had fled 
for ever, and, removing the bout eaten! eed over 
the corpae and wailed in a paroxysm of agot 
Wo excavated a grave 4 feet deep at ft the foot of a 
hoary acacia with wide-spreading branches, and on its 
ancient trauk Frank engraved adeep cross, the emblem 
of the faith wo all believe in, and, when folded in its 
shroud, we laid the body in its final resting-plnco 
during the Inst gleams of sunset. We read the beautiful 
prayers of the church service for the dead, and, out of 
reapect for the departed, whose frank, sociable, and 
winning manners had won their friendship and regard, 
nearly all the Wangwana were prosent to pay a last 
tribute of sighs to poor Edward Pocock. 
When the last solemn prayer had been read, we 
rotired to our tents, to brood in sorrow and silence 
‘over our irreparable loss, 





‘From Chiru to Vinvata — Kaif Huleck murdered — The magte doctor 
Giving away th Beart Decs of ood "The white man be 

fate id 0 rand Welt ot Rage. 

‘Wr have seen no remarkable feature in the landscape 
since we surmounted that steep wall of the pland 
which bounds Uyogo on the west. Near its verge, it 
ia true, it rose in steep termees, until finally it extended 
westward and northward in a broad jungle-covered 
plain, which had a gradual rise, culminating in the 
tmyombo-clud slopes of the Uveriveri ridge, While 
standing at Suna, we were in view of that vast waste 
‘out of which, after terrible experience, we had emerged 
as it were only with our lives, 

At Ohiwyu, we camped near the loftiest altitude of 
the gradual and almost unbroken rise of upland, at a 
it of 6400 feet. To the northward of Suna and 
Chiwyu, the country, however, no longer retained that 
grand nofurrowed uplift, but presented several isolated 
hills and short ranges, while to the westward also we 
saw that it was divided into oval basins, rimmed with 
Jow hills. From these sume hollows and furrows and 
basins at the base of the hills, scattered to the north and 
west of Suna and Chiwyu, issue the first tiny rivalets, 
which, as we continue our journey to the north-west, 
gradually converge to one main streat, treudiog towards 


ats, these days the thermometer had seldom risen 

78°: for bours during the day it stood 
at 66°, while at night the menn was 63°. Seven miles 

Chiwyu stand the villages of Mangura on the 
borders of Tturu, Soon after leaving Mangum we 
ought to have followed the left-hand road, which, after 
traversing a forest, would have brought us to Mgongo 
Tembo, where we should have found Wangwana and 
Wanyamwezi. We ulso discovered that we had already 
lost the regular path to Usukuma at Kashongwa, which 
would have taken us, we were told, to Utatura and 
thence to Mgongo Tembo, But the Mangura natives, 
though they were otherwise tolerant of our presence 
and by no means ill-disposed, would not condescond to 
show us the rond, and we were thorefore exposed to a 
series of calamities, which at one time threatened our 
very exiatence, 

After passing Mangura, we entered Tturn, Streams 
now became numerous, wll flowing northward; but 
peeaee such a well-watered country, the cattle in it 

‘poor and gaunt in frame, the dogs half starved, 
nee the sheep and gonts mere skeletons, Only the 
human beings scemed to me to be in good condition, 

Among the birds of this region which uttrasted our 
attention, we noted spur-winged geese, small brown 
short-billed ducks, delicate of fe ere and delicious eating, 
long-legged plover, snipe, cranes, herons, spoonbills 
parroqnets and jays, and a largo greyish-brown bird 
with short legs Teeembling a goose, and very shy and 
difficult of approach, 

‘The language of Ituru is totally distinct from that of 
Ugogo or of Unyamweri. Besides possessing large 
herds of cattle, nearly every village bousts of one or 
two strong Masai asses, As the Wanyaturn stood in 
groups indulging their curivsity outside our camps, 
Tobserved they had a curious habit of employing them- 


Ine Bh 

that the most fenrful and timid could have considered 
ominous. Nevertheless, consistent with custom, the 
camp was constructed on the summit of o slightly 
awelling ground, between a forest and the fields in the 
basin. The people of the small village nearest to us 
deserted it upon first sight of our party, but they were 
finally porsuaded to return. Everything promised at 
night to be peaceful, though anxiety began to be felt 
about the fate of Knif Halleck. He had not been seen 
for two days, Some suggested he had deserted, but 
“faithfuls” rarely desert upon mers impulse, without 
motive or cause, It was necessary therefore to halt a 
day at Vinyata to despatch a searching party. Manwa 
Sern was told to take four staunch men, one of whom 
was the scout and famous detective, Kachéché, to hunt 
up the sick “ letter-carrier of 1871.” 

During Manwa Sera’s absence, Frank, Barker, and 
myself were oocupied in reducing our loads, aud re- 
jecting every article that we could possibly subsist 
without, Our sick were many, twenty had died, and 
sighty- nine had deserted, between the coast and 
Vinyata ! 

Whilo examining the cloth bales, we discovered that 
several wero wet from the excessive rains of Ugogo, 
and to save them from being ruined, it was imperative, 
though impolitic, that we should spread the cloths to 
dry. In tho midst of this work the great magic doctor 
of Vinyata came to pay me a vieit, bringing with him 
fino fat ox naa peace offering, Being the first we had 
received since leaving Kitalalo, we regarded it as a 
propitious omen, and I showed by my warmth toward 
the ancient Mgangs that I was ready to reciprocate his 
kindness. He was introduced to my tent, and after 
being eocinbly entertained with exceedingly sweet coffee 
and some of Huntley and Palmer's best and sweetest 
biscuits, he was presented with fifteen cloths, thirty 

(5 fee eal fora wile nol foe euch of 
We parted about 9.30 4.m. atter shaking 



hands many times, apparently mutually pleased with 
rae gach other, No mention was made to any untive of 
‘"* Vinyata of the murder of Kaif Halleck, lest it might 
‘be suspected we charged our new friends with being 
cogniznt of, or accessory to, the cruel deed, which 
would, without doubt, have caused new complications. 
Half an hour after the departure of the magie doctor, 
while many of the Wangwana were absent purchasing 
grain, and others were in the forest colleoting faggots, 
‘wo heard war cries. Imogining that they were the 
‘muster-call to resist their neighbours of Izanjeb, or of 
wome tribe to the east, we did not pay much attention 
to them. However, as these peculiar war-crive, which 
may be phonetioully rendered “ Hehu-a hebu,” appeared 
to draw nearer, we mustered a small party on the 
highest ground of the camp, in an attitude of doubt 
and enquity, and presently anw a large body of natives 
armed with spears, bows and arrows, and shiclds, 
appear within a hundred yardson a similar high-ground 
outside the camp, The sight suggested to us that they 
had mustered against us, yet I conld divine no cause of 
lates or subject of complaint to call forth a war- 
like demonstration. 

I despatched two unarmed messengers to them to 
inqnive what their intentions were, and to nsvertain 
the object of this apparently hostile mob. ‘The mes 
sengers halted midway between the camp and the 
vited two of the natives to 

‘We soon discovered upon the return of the messengers 

that one of the Wangwana had stolen some milk, and 

that the natives hnd been aroused to make war”® upon 

‘us because of the theft. They wore sent baok to inform 

the natives that war was wicked and unjust for auch « 

small crime, and to suggest that they should fix a price 
*  Alake wat" isthe Utena tranaation of anya vita 



‘The loudly arguing mob bad not yet scttled con- 
clusively what they should do, and possibly, hostilities 
might have been averted, had not the imurderers of 
young Suliman, advancing red-handed and triumphant, 
extorted from all the pntest opinion that it would 
be better after all to fight “the cowardly Wangwana 
and the white men, who were evidently only 

They quickly disposed themselves, delivered loud 
whoops of tramp, prepared their bows, and shot their 
first arrows. The Wangwana became restless, but I 
restrained them, Pereeiving no sign of life in our 
camp, the Wanyaturu judged, doubtless, that we wero 
half dead with fright, und advanced holdly to within 
thirty yards, when the word was given to the Wan- 

ana and Wanyamweai, who rushed outside and, by 
the very momentum of the rush, drove the savages to a 
distance of 200 yards, The Wangwana were then 
ordered to halt, and deployed w# skirmishers. 

We still wnited without firing. The sa not 
‘comprehending this extmnordinary forbearance, advanced 
once more. ‘The interpreters were roquested to warn 
them that we should delay no longer, They replied, 
“Ye are women, ye are women; go, ask Mirambo how 
he fared in Ituro,” saying which they twanged their 
bows. It was only then, perceiving that they were 
too savage to understand the principles of forbearance, 
that the final word to “fight” was given, A brisk 
encounter was maintained for an hour, and then, having 
driven the savages away, the Wangwana woro recalled 
to camp. 

Mennwhilo Frank was busy with sixty men armed 
with axes in constructing a strong stockade, and on the 
return of the Wangwana they were employed in build- 
ing marksmen’s “nests” at each corner of the camp. 
We also cleared the ground to the space of 200 yards 



s a 

¢ inhabitants out wherever they find them 
lodged, to a distance of five miles enst and north, 
certain rocky hills, the rendezvous of the foe, being 
pointed out as the place where they must converge, 
Messengers are sent with each detachment to bring 
mo back information, 
‘The left detachment, under chief Furjalla Christie, 
were soon thrown into disorder, and were killed to n 

was therefore despatched with fifteen men, and arrived 
at the teene only in time to save eight out of the 
necond detachment. ‘The third plunged boldly on, 
but lost six of its number; the fourth, under chief 
Snfeni, behnved prudently and well, and, as fast as 
each enclosed village was taken, set it on fire, But 
ten other men despatched to the scene retrieved what 
the third had lost, and strengthened Safeni. 

About 4 Pat. the Wangwana returned, bringing 
with them oxen, gouts, and grain for food. Our lowes 
in this day's proceedings were twenty-one soldiers and 
«ne messenger killed, and three wounded, 

On the morning of the 25th we waited until 9 Aor, 
again hoping that the Wanyaturn would see tho 
impolicy of renewing the fight; but we were disap- 
pointed, for they appeared again, and apparently as 
humerous ag ever, After some severe volleys we drove 
them off agnin on the third day, but upon the return of 
the Wangwana, instead of dividing thom into detach- 
ments, J instructed them to proceed in a compact body, 
Some of the porters volunteered to take the place of 
the soldiers who perished the previous day, and we 
were therefore able to show still a formidable front, 

n th at diy ‘crossed the Leewumbu, 
Bere istoe st iene, 

features of this regic 

Sree of os iar, rar irnes ass 

features of this Tot Aftion gives its name to Mgongo 
‘Tembo, “The Elephant’s Back.” Far to the south 

‘ite of hie new colony the name 

of his former village, to remind him of old associations, 

‘oung men nowadays 
to be too fond of travel, and will not allow his sons— 
he has sixteen—to visit either Unyanyembé or Zanzibar 
Jest they should learn bad habits, He is a hearty, jovial 
woul, kindly disposed if let alone, He hns Intely 
‘emerged triumphantly out of a war with Magunga of 
Bubuga, an ally of the famous Mirambo, 

It had been an object with me at one time to steer 
clear of Mirumbo, but us I recognised and became 
impreaed with bis ubi powers, I fhiled to por 


to be 

fike creck, the boiling-point showed 4260 
4100 fet higher than Lake Victoria, penkc 

place soon after to the ‘aoncias and a variety of 
vorub, suoceeded in their turn by a vast expanse of tawny. 

‘The Luwamberri plain—with its brendth of nonrly 
forty miles, its indefinite length of level reach towards 
the N.N.W,, its low altitude above the Vietorian Lake, 
the wave-worn slopes of the higher elevations which 
hem it on the ewst and the south—appears to me to 
have been in ancient times a long arm of the great 
Inke which was our prospective goal at this period, 
About sixteen miles from Igira there is a small sIugwis 
‘atveam with an almost imperceptible current northward, 
but though it was insignificant at the time of our cross 
ing, there were cerlain traces on the tall grass to 
show that during the middle of tho rainy senson it is 
nearly a mile brond, and very deep. Several nulla 
or ravines with stagnant water, when followed up, 
prove to have their exit in the broad channel, 

Tn the contre of tho level plain rises a curions eleva- 
tion, like wn island crowned with a grove, whither the 
frame with which the plain teems resort during the wot 
neason. At the period of our crossing, however, they 
roved in countless numbers over the plnin—giraffo, 
zebra, gnu, buffalo, springbok, water-buck, kudu, harte- 
beest, wild-bonr, and several varieties of smaller 
antelope; while birds abounded, ibis, field-larks, fish« 

a — 

Sere arditca learat seeiste atic poate 

“Hoyu Msungu n'u fungun mikono.” 
“With the rewards they received, the Wangwana and 
Wi weal, men, women, and children, revelled in 
lights of repleted stomachs, and the voice of the 
gaunt monster, Hunger, was finally hushed. Tn festive 
rejoieings and inordinate fulness we spent three days 
wt Mombiti. 

A fresh troop of porters was here engaged to relieve 
the long-suflering people, and with renowed spirits and 
rekindled vigour, and with reserve stores of luxuries 
on our shoulders, we plunged into the jungle in the 
Girection of the Monangah valley and Usiha, in pro- 
ference to the ever-troubled route by Usanda, Nguru, 
and Masari, Mirambo, it was reported, was nlso in the 
neighbourhood of Masari, and hovering about our path 
Tike a phantom, 


we arrived on the 3 
at Eastern Usiha, When in sight of 




igerod over their meals in the days of plenty 
at Mombiti, so fondly did I gloat over this expanding 
‘extent, rich in contrasts and pleasing surprises. Fresh 
from the tawny plains of Menatieahs with its thirsty 
and sere aspect, I was as gratified as though I possessed 



4d mn bor, att hh wo td 
Meme esbeagtconiea ‘ocean and the 
Mae wel the om 
me our a 

tolerably open, did not inspire us with 
such a large, indescribable sense of freedom as the 
open short-grass lands in which we now found ourselves. 
ITA eo th ragged l-bpe wich aloe 

Inndscape that might otherwise have been monotonous 
may bo obtained from the photograph of Weri's rocks. 
They are extremely picturesque from their massiveness 
and eccentricity, which distance increases and charms 
into ruined castles or antique hmnan dwellings, 

‘Villages were numerous between Usiha and Wandui. 
Sweet springs bubbled from all sides, especially from 
the opposing bnses of the granite ridges which, like 
walls, flank the broad natural avenue, at the upper end 
of which stands the capital of the king of Usiha, shaded 
by glorious baobab and bowery massoe of milk-woed. 

As wo were marching from Wandui to Mondo, on 
the 20th February, we were once again mistaken. by 
the warlike natives for Mirambo, but the mistake went 
no further thon war-cries, long, low, and melodious, 
caught up by hundreds of clear voices, and a demon- 
atrative exhibition of how they would have exterminated 
us had wo boen really and traly 'bo. In propor- 
tion as Mirambo haunts their vicinity, 90 do the natives 
mppear to be possessed and disturbed, Wandui and 


pa crariti re Sevention sales ports hye 
waterlees jungle brought us on the 24th to South 
Usmau, Native travellers in this country possess 
native bells of globular form with which, when setting 
‘out on u journey, they ring most alarming though not 
inharmonious sounds, to waken the women to their 
daily duties. 
The journey to Hulwa in North Usman was begun 
lunging through a small forest at the base of some 
rocky hills which had been distinctly visible from Marya, 
thirty-one miles south. A number of monkeys lined 
their summits, gazing contemptuously at the long string 
of bipeds condemned to boar londs. We then descended 
into a brond and populous basin, wherein villages 
with their milk-weed hedges appeared to be only so 
many verdant circlets, Great frngments and heaps of 

_—— | 

hill. He took a sweepin, 
at something, waved his hat, and een 

“T have seon the Lake, Sir, and it is grand!" 

Jorg, ih had wl hi hr hi 

‘we also reached the brow of the hill, where 
ta found the expedition hala an the first quick view 
revealed to us a long brond arm of water, which a 
dazzling #an transformed into silver, some 600 feet 
below us, at the distance of three miles, 

A mors careful and detailed view of the scene showed. 
us that the hill on which wo stood sloped gradually 
to tho brond bay or gulf edged by a lino of groen wavy 
yoods and thin groves of umbragcous trees ecaltered 
along the shore, on which stood several «mall villages 
of oeaical hate Beyond these, the lake stretched “like 
fa silvery plain far to tho eastward, and away across 
toa Toy, of dark blue hills and eyes while 
several grey rocky islets mocked us at first with an 
illusion ee “Arab dhowa with white sails, The Wan- 
‘yamweri struck up the song of triumph -— 

0 fe tho journey 
Ee ay 
Give our lst inode find tt deme 

== —= 


ars and his force, but, though discovering their error, they 
inst atill thought it too good an opportunity to be lost for 
“e’t* showing their bravery, and therefore amused us with 
this byplay, Sungoro Turib, an Arab resident at 
Kagehys, also despatched a messenger with words of 
welcome, and an invitation to us to make Kagehyi 
our eamp, as Prince Kaduma, chief of Kngehyi, was 

his faithfal ally. 


(Brom a photograph.) 

In a short time wo had entered the wretched-looking 
villuge, and Kaduma was casily induced by Sungoro to 
proffer hospitalities to the strangers. A small conical 
hut about 20 feet in diameter, badly lighted, and with 
astrong emell of animal matter—its roof swarmed with 
bold rats, which, with a malicious persistence, kept 
popping in and out of their neste in the straw roof, and 
rusing over the walle—was placed at my disposal as 
a store-room. Another small hnt was presented to 
Frank Pocock and Fred Barker as their quartors, 

Yn summing up, during the evening of our arrival at 

Yr ait: | 


this rade village on the Nyansa, the number of statute urs, 
miles travelled by us, a4 moaaured by two rated pedo- 7 
motors and pocket wateb, I ascertained it to be 720, 
The time occupied —from November 17, 1874, to 
February 27, 1875, inclusive—was 103 days, divided 

into 70 marching and 33 halting days, by which it will 


5 ToCeER, (Brim w hohuyruh by the Aothor wk Kagehys) 

be peared that our marches averaged a little over 10 
miles por day, But as halts are imperative, the more 
correct method of ascertaining the rate of travel would 
‘be to include the time occupied by balts and marches, 
und divide the total distance by the number of days 

ovcupicd. ‘This reduces the rate to T miles per diem, 
Vou. £—10 

bee q 



he illest of tho new tie now dvlving 

eect the Wasukuma recruits were 
summoned to receive farewell gifts, and nenrly all were 
‘Then 13 doti of cloth were measured for 
te af Ua ote as for Prin Kadamn; 
wore ven in pro) e 
‘Hons of these two maguaiea Patrice emiecst 
being thus sutisfnctorily realized. 

ied mo jours of our second day's life at 
ron j. Meanwhile the Wangwaua and Wanyamwezi 
required ‘me to show my ee of their fidelity 
to me during the march, and chiefs and mon received 
accordingly substantial See thereof, Besides new 
cloths to wear, and beads to purchase luxuries, I was 
expected to furnish them with meat for a banquets and 
in accordance with their just wishes, six bullooks 
were purchased and slaughtered for their benefit. In 
nidition to which, as a banquet would be rather tame 
without wine for cheer, twenty gallons of pomhé— 
beor in a state of natural fermentation—were distri- 
buted. ‘To satisfy all which demands and expectations, 
three full bales of cloth und 120 Iba. of bends were 

On the evening of the second day, I was rewarded 
for my liberality when I saw the general contentment, 
snd heard on all sides expressions of esteom and renewed _ 


‘Nor woro Frank and Fred forgotten, for T gave per- 
mission for them to issue for themselves, ench day while 
in camp, four yards of cloth, or two fundo of beads, to 
be expended as they thought fit, over and above ration 


Masr (Cairo) or from Zanvibar, but Wirigedi, 
at hond here, on Speke Gulf, might still be in 

profound ignoranes of the arrival. Mtesn of Uganda 
might prick his enrs at the gratifying intelligence, and 
hope they would soon visit him, while Ukara, thongh 
ae about twenty-five geographical miles from Kagehyi, 
might be excluded for ever from discussing the strange 
topic. The natives of Karagwé and their gentle king 
might be grently exercised in their minds with the 
agreeable news, and wonder whether they, in their 
tur, should ever seo the white men, and yet Komehi, 
300 miles nearor to us, might only hear of the wonder 
ful event years after our departure! Thus it is that 
information is only conveyed slong the lines of traffio, 
and does not filter into those countries which are 
ostracized from common interests and eventa by the 
reputed ferocity of their inhabitants and their jealous 
hostility to strangers, even though they may actually 
border upon the localities where those interests and 
events are freely discussed. 

Prince Kaduma, truth compels me to state, is a truo 
Central African “toper”—a naturally amiable man, 
whose natural amiability might be increased to enor- 
mous proportions, provided that it was stimulated 

a ey | 

character, whether his intentions could be fulfilled. 
Yet he informed me that he hnd visited Ukerowé, 
Urori, and Ugeyeya, and would, for a consideration, 
place himself at my disposal, ‘The considerntion was 
ready, but Kaduma, unfortunately for me, I sw, could 
not be rendy within a decade! Hopes of his assistance 

| a | 

of possible were boxed, and 
i Itt be nly wing her 


eat ald , 
Ree Sy, said T, “depart, Will you let me go 


“What then? Show me my braves—those men 
who freely enlist to follow their master round the sea.” 

All were again dutnb, Appealed to indi 
‘euch said he knew nothing of ees life; each man ly 
declared himself s terrible coward on water. 

“Then, what am I to do?” 

pesos ‘Sera said :— 

Master, have done with these questions, ere 

your party. All your people are your cbildren, and 
ed will not disobey you. While you ask them asa 
friend, no one will offer his serviecs. Command them, 
and they will all go." 

So T selected a chief, Wadi Safeni—the aon of Safeni 
—and told him to pick out the elect of the young men, 
Wadi Sefeni chose men who knew nothing of boat life. 
Then I called Kuchéché, the detective, and told him to 
ascertain the names of those young men who were 
‘aocustomed to sea life, upon which Kachéché informed 
me that the young guides first selected by me at Baga- 
moyo were the sailors of the Expedition. After reflect- 
ing upon the capacities of the younger men, ns they 
had developed themselves on the rond, I made a list 

‘of ten sailore and a stecrsman, to whose fidelity I was 
willing to ontrist myself and fortunes while coasting 
round the Victorian 


Accordingly, after drawing up instructions for Frank 1078 
Pocock and Fred Barker on about @ score of matters = & 
concerning the wellbeing of the Expedition during my 
absence, and enlisting for them, by an adequate gift, the 

will of Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, I set sail on 
the 8th March 1875, enetward along the shores of the 
broad arm of the lake which we first sighted, and 
which henceforward is known, in honour of its first 
discoverer, as “Speke Gulf.” 




Alor an examination of these features, we continued 
our journey along the coast of Maxanz, which forme 
‘the eustern shore of the bay of Shimeeyn, passing: 

boldly rising and wooded hills of Manassa, 
pted to land in a small cove, but 

we were compel 
of water, about two miles from shore, 
On the 11th March, after rowing nearly the whole 
day against a head-wind, we arrived at the eastern end 
of Speke Gulf, which hero narrows to about soven miles, 
‘On the southern side, Mannasa extends from Mazanzn, 
its const-line marked by an almost unbroken ridge 
about two miles inland, varied here and there by 

rounded knolls and hills, from whose base there is a 

ide withor 
to the blazing sun, it ascends to 115° Far. he 

In the evening we camped on @ small island in the 

industrious colony subject to the king of Ukerewé, 
From the summit of Nifuah we could distinguish 
the tall trees which gave shade to our camp and to 

Kaduma’s village of Kagehyi, across Speke Gulf, 

coming down to the water's edge, we saw nothing but 
the blue hills, 600 feet high, situated three miles south 
‘of Kagehyi; nor, turning our eyes to the north, could 
we see anything of the low shore which the Rugedai 
Channel cuts. Standing close to the water at Nifuah, 
we would have imagined that Ukerewé was an island 
separated by a strait about two miles brond; but 
turning ur iat to the north, a couple of hours’ rowing 
brought us so near that we could see that the opposing 
point of the mainland is joined to the island, or 
joined, by a very low bush-covered neck 
‘a mile in width, which thus separates the waters 
of Spcke Gulf from the great body of Lake Viotoria, 
A still clocor examination, however, revenls the fact 
that this narrow neck is cut by n ehnilow channel, 
6 foot wide and in some places ouly $ feot deep. ‘The 
ground, though extremely low on each side, is firm and 
eumpnct enough; but here and there it is of a bogey 
nature. Hence it will be seen that Captain Speke, 

who called Ukerowé an island, was literally correct. 
‘On tho 13th we enjoyed a fine six-knot breeze, and 
worv able to make a good day's wark, though we still 

4 | 

i, Hl eae with woods Leaving 
on, in ‘view jof she ~vaet: atapliads; 
as | en a cieareer the Victoria Ny 
After sailing past the Kamassi and Kindevi islets, 
‘wo rounded “the Tilly ‘point of Masonga, saab 

aped ridge 
the wie and creel wooded, while on our 

the large and populous island of Ukara— 

peopled by an intensely superstitious colony, who 

cherish the most devout faith in charms and witchcraft. 

As wo rowed past Shizu Island, we bebeld the table- 
topped mountain of Majita rising, massive and grand, to 
the eastward. On the 16th March we encamped on 
one of the bird-rocks about three miles from the baso 
of Majita, which rises probably between 2000 and 3000 
Bs above the lake, From the northern angle of 

fajita wo sailed, on n north-oast course for the district 
| ‘ye, across a deep bay distinguished only for the 
| on hill rango of Usambara, between which, on either 
side, extends the low ond almost trecloss plain of 

Shahshi to the waters of Speke Gulf. 

From Wye we coasted along populous Ururi, The 
country apperrs well cultivated, and villages are 
numerous. Some of the Waruri fishermen informed 
us wo should be eight yenrs cireumnavigating the lake! 
Numerous rocky islands, almost all uninhabited at this 
period, stud the neighbourhood of the mainland, and 
the const is 80 indented with deep bays and inlets that 
it requires very careful attention to survey it. Ite 
features are similar to those of Usukuma, namely, 
welling and uneven lines of hills, sometimes with 

* Out of respect to the memory of Captain Speke, T Teavo the wond 
Nynnaa as ho spolied it, adding only the explanation that none but the 

| Arta and Wangwans pronounce it X'yaura. Ail the native tribes and 
Taations round the lake pronounce it either Noeyanja or New-yanua, 
Niyanja or Niyanzm, 

= ‘ = 

the luke, i 
ieee Renitce peproer mer pets a 
thickly popu tribes of Ururi, Ukerewé, 
Sima, Magu, or Uchambi. A fow of the Burdott-Coutts 
Islands exhibited trices of hnving beon the resort 

to seek shelter under the lee of one of the tying: 
poets of Dob te eae 

were swept with grent force past rocks, and 
shonld inevitably Nave been lost, had not the oars, 
which wo had Inshed outside the boat as fae, pro- 
tected it, Throngh the pelting rain, and amid tho 
thundors of the aroused waves which lashed the reef, 
we laboured strenuonsly to save oursulves, and finally 
succeeded in rowing to the other lee, 

Extornally, the aspect of these islands on the const 
‘of Ururi is very rugged, bare, and unpromising, but 
within are many acres of cultivable soil covered with 

Tand, theso amphibise appear to possess also Ree Te 

ive boundaries and their separate haunts, Tho 
potamii of Lake Victoria, moreover, are an exces — * 

belligerent species, and the unwary voyager, on 

~~ ual 

‘ = 
ams, sprain their haunts, sedi place himself to danger, 
ae, fo were oy Meats by them ; and as the boat 
‘wubieod was not ndapted for a combat with such pacl Le Fee 
collision would have been fatal tous. The 
at Trieni possess large herds of cattle, but the soil 
does not soem to be highly cultivated. In this respect 
the people aj to resemble in character the Watusi 
iB aya reo. live only on the milk of their 
cattle, ser} such grain as they are enabled to obtain 
by ite sale, 
Suspeoting, after leaving Irieni and appronching 
Meri Tay, that a river of considerable importance 
ie into it, we paid particular attontion to every 
in indentation on ita uneven coast; but on arriving at a 
lofty though small island ot the eustern extremity, and 
climbing to its summit, 150 feet above the lake, we 
saw that the river was small, und that its course was 
from south of east. Observation Island waa rich in 
planta, though ouly  fow hundred yards in length. 
The wild pineapple, mimosas, acacia, thorn, guin, 
vines, cuphorbias, eechinomenw, Ilianes, water-cane, 
and ‘speargrass flourished with a luxuriance quite 
astonishing. As we pnsced Utiri, wo observed thit 
the natives were much interested in our boat, and 
some fishermen whom we encountered fell into ecstasies 
‘of laughter when they saw the novel method wo 
adopted for propelling her. ‘They mocked us good- 
naturodly, and by their gestures reemed to express 
contempt for the method in question, as not being 
equal to paddling. The rudder und ita uses also ex- 
cited unusual astonishment, and when the sail was 
hoisted, they skurried away as though it were an object 
of terror, 
After leaving the hilly coast of Utiri, the lowlands 
+ of Shirati and Mohuru rose into view, and the black 
mountain mass of Ugeyeya appeared to the eastward at 

muKDOE raLAD, 

At evening we camped on Bridge Island, so named 
from a orl bridge of aration rock which forms 
fan irregular arch of about 24 fect in length by about 
12 feet in depth, and under which we were able to pass 
from one side of the island to the other. The ‘ahand 
is covered with brush-wood and tall grass, and in the 
interstices of the rocks, where the vegetable deposit 
was of great depth, grew several fine mangroves, 
The height i is about 50 feet above the Inke, and from 
ite summit we obtained a fine view of Ugingo Island, 
brooding in its gloomy eolitude, and of the steep and 


Nakidimo, we observed the water change from its usual 
clear grey colour to that of a rich brown, and, seeing 
1 creek close by, felt fully assured that we hnd dise 
covered some important river. Aa we entered, the 
creck widenod, and disclosed picturesque features of 
outlined hill and wooded slope, We pulled steadily 
to its further extremity, but the stream which een 
jwre was small, and oozed through a reedy mare 
We ondeavoured for an hour to induce a canoo Bi 
three fishermen in it to ay i but all we could 
make out from Saramba, who, I fear, did not under 
stand them, was that the name of the country was 
gana whieh sounded #o like Fou go ‘way that 1 
declined necepting it, until the natives shouted out 
still more clourly and emphatically, *U-go-weh.” It 
was evident, chee. that these natives: a Tan- 
guage that our guide from the south di fig 
comprehend, We continued our keen inspecti 
numerous indentations from Ugoweh (?) to tants 
Creek, into which an important stream debouches, 
‘The hippopotami were numerous, and ae bold as those 
of Speke Gulf, 

Emerging once more into the Inke, wo anchored 
about # mile from the shore in 6 fathoms, aud found 
that there wae a current of about Inlfa knot setting 
westward, At 2 Pat. we hoisted sail, and with a fair 
wind were able to hug the mainland and make good 


view of a very populous and exten- 
recs shore, ‘This was the land of Maheta, 
‘we were told, and the same which we had sighted from 
the summit of Bridge Island. We flew away with a 
bellying sail along the coast of Maheta, where we 
aw a denser lation and more clusters of large 
villages than we beheld elsewhere, We thought 
we wonld make one more effort to learn of the natives 
‘the names of some of these villages, and for that pur 
pose steored for n cove on the western shore, Wo 
anchored within 60 yards, and so pnid out our cable 
that only a fow feet of deep water soparated us from the 
beach, Some half-dozen men wearing small land-shells 
above their elbows and a circle of them round their heads 
came to the brink. With these we opened a friendly 
conversation, during which they disclosed the name of 
the country as Mahata” or “ Muhota” in Ugeyeyn; 
‘but more they would not communicate unless we would 
land, Wo prepared to do so, but the numbers on the 
shore increased so fast that wo were compelled to pull 
y ‘off again until they should moderate their excitement 
and make room, They seemed to think we were about 
to pull off altogether, for there suddenly appeared out of 
the bush on each side of the spot where we had intended 
to land such a host of spears that we hoisted sail, and 
loft them to try their treachery on some other bout 
‘or canoe more imprudent than ours. The discomfited 
ile were seen to consult together on a small ridge 
Pakina tha th llniog tbe lake, and no doubt: they 
thought we were about to pass close to a small point at 
the north end of the cove, for they shouted gleefully 
at the prospect of a prize; but lowering snil, we 
pulled to windward, far out of the reach of bow or 
sling, and at dusk made for a small island to which we 

moored our boat, and there camped in security. 
Froia our little island off Maheta, we sailed at the 


dawn of day towards the low shores, and were making | tr, 

Petraes ‘we bumped over the spine of a "2h, 
rising ‘hippopotamus, who, frightened by: thin etzange === 
and weighty object on his back, gave w furious lunge, | 

shaken to pieces. The hippo, after manifestation 
of aint fot tt loli seated his 
defiance; but after experienci strength, we 
rowed away hard from his nei ee 
About 10 sar. we found ourselves nbronst of the 
cones of Manyara, and discovered the long and lofty 
ipsa which had attracted our attention ever since | 
leaving Muhota to be the island of Usugarn, another, | 
though larger, copy of Ugingo. ateaey a channel | 
two miles broad wo entered the bay of Manyara, | 
bounded on the east by the picturesque hills of that 
icoath on the north by the plain of Ugana, and on 
tho weat by Muiwanda and the long, narrow promontory 
of Chaga, ‘This bay forms the’ extreme north-east 
corner of Lake hiortay but strangers, travelling by | 
Innd, would undoubtedly mistake it for a separate lake, 
ag Usuguru, when looked at from this bay, seems to | 
overlap the pointa of Chaga and Manyara, 
About six miles from the north-vastern extremity 
of the bay, we anchored on the afternoon of the Bath 
March, about 100 yards from the village of Muiwanda. | 
‘Here we found n people speaking the language of Uags. | 
A good deal of diplomacy was employed between | 
| natives and ourselves before a friendly intercourse was | 
established, but we were finally suocvssfal in inducing 
the natives to exchange vegetable produce and a sheep 
for some of the blue glass beads called Mutunda. 
Neither men nor women wore any covering for their 
nakedness mven kirtle of green banann-leaves, which 
appeared to me to resemble in its exceeding primitive 
nese the figleaf costume of Adam and Eve, The mon 



distinguished, besides, by the absence of the upper 
lower front teeth, and by their shaven heads, 

~ on which were left only irregular combs or crescents 
| ‘of hair on the top and over the forehead, While 

we were negotiating for food, » magnificent canoe, 
i a Bei heen came up from the western 
| side of the villuge, but, despite the lond invitae 

| tions tendered to them, the strangers kept on their 
way, and proceeded up the bay of Manyara. 

On tho 25th, relreehed by the meat and vegetables 
wo had purchased, we began our voyage along the 
northern coast of Lake Victoria, and, two hours later, 
were in conversation with the nntives of Chaga or 
Shaga, who informed us that Murambo, king of Usu- 
guru, was also king of Chaga. Tam unable to decide 
whether Chaga is a promontory or an island, but T 
beliove that there is a narrow channel navigable for 
canoes (of the same nature as the Rugedzi* Channel) 
separating Ohaga from the mainland. Between its 
southern point and Usugura Island, there is a strait 
about three-quarters of a mile wide, through which wo 
passed to Fisherman's Island, where we rested for our 
noonday meal, At 2 P.M. we arrived, after an hour's 
rowing, near Ngevi Island, and when close to it, 
wo were compelled to take shelter from a furious 

We had beon at anchor senrcoly ten minutes before 
we saw a small canoe, paddled by two men, boldly 
caer us from the shore of Ugamba, distant about a 
mile and « balf on our right or to the east of us, In 
‘our mildest accents we huiled them, and, after a pro- 
tracted interval employed by them in curiously scan- 
ning us, they permitted us to heur tho sound of their 
voices. But nothing would induce them to come nearer 

* Rogodsl is the name of the narrow channel which separates Uikerews 
from the roainland, 

— eee 


than about 100 yards, In the midst: of these vain\ sss, | 
efforts to win their confidence, a cauoe similar in form pot 
and colour to that which had won our admiration at | 
Muiwands advanced towards us. A false prow proj | 
upward, curving in the shape of a bent elbow, from the | 
tip of which to the top of the bow of the canoe was | 
strong a taut line, and along this was suspended somo 

fine grass, which waved like » mane as sho charged 

up, bold and confident, propelled by forty yee 

Half of this number, who were seated forward, 

up when they canfe within 60 een and, mate 

Tong tufted lances and shields, began to sway them 
menagingly, As we made no demonstration of restate 

nce, they advanced cautiously, and when within 

20 yards swerved aside, wheeling round us in a definnt 


Finally we broke silence, and demanded who they 
were, and why they came up as though they ean 
titsdoins bas) they did not understand illo King. 
wana, Kisukuma, or Kinyamwezi, one of my boatmen 
attempted Kigunda, a little of which they appeared to | 
understand ; and by this tans we opened a conversa 
tion, They edged towards us # little nearer, and ended 
by ranging their long canoe alongside of our boat. 
Our tame, mild manners were in striking contrast to 
their bullying, overbearing, and insolent demeanour. 
The llers, half of whom wore intoxicated, laid 
their honds with familiar freedom upon everything. 
‘We still smiled, and were as mild and placable as 
though anger and resentment could never enter our 
Liearts, We were eo courteous, indeed, that we per= 
mitted them to handle our persons with a degree of 
freedom which to them appeared unaccountable—unless 
yee wero so timid that we feared to give offence, If 
-we hnd been eo many sheep, we could not have borne a 
milder or w more innocent aspect. Our bold friends, 


stern of my bont. T mnde a motion with my hand as 
though deprecating such an action. The sooty villain 
seemed to become at once animated by an hysterio 
passion, and whirled bis stone over my head, a loud 
drunken cheer applauding his boldness, 

Perceiving that they were becoming wanton through 
‘our apparently mild demeanour, I soizod my revolver 
‘and fired rapidly into the water, in the direction the 
stone had been flung, and the effect was Binfally 
ludicrons, The bold, insolent bacchanale the first 
shot hnd sprung overboard, and were 
dear life to Ngevi, leaving their canoo in our hands, 
“Friends, come back, come back; why this fear?” 
cried out our interpreter; “we simply withed to show 
you that we had weapons as well as yourselves, hex 
take your nanoe; see, we push it away for yor 
seize it.” We eventually won them back with see: 
Wo spoke to thoin sweetly as bofore. The natives 
‘wore more respectful in their demeanour. They 
laughed, cried out admiringly; imitated the pistol 
shots; “ Boom, boom, boom,” they shouted. They then 
presented me with a bunch of bananas! We became 
vothusiastic admirers of ench other. 

Meantime, two more large canoes caine up, also bold 
and confident, for they had not yet been taught a lesson, 
‘These now-comers insisted that we should visit their 
king Kamoydah, We begged to be excused, ‘They 
‘became still more urgent in their request, We said it 

i a 


was impossible; they were strangers, and not very well 
behaved 5 if they waked to irter with us, they could Mars 
fond their canoes and come to Ngevi, where we would *" 
le happy to exchange beads or cloth for their articles, 
‘Three other canoes were now seen a] , We 
sat, however, elsetrenale still, patient, and lacable, 
and waited for them. The united voices of the 130 | 
natives made a terrible din, but we endured it with 
siintly meekness and the fortitude of stoices—for a 
period ‘We bore the storm of entreaties mixed with 
rude menaces until instinct warned me that it was” 
Vocoming dangerous, I then delivered some instruc- 
tions to the boat's crew, and, nodding to the shore, 
affected to surrender with on indifferent grace. They 
Lecwme suddenly silent. We lifted the stone anchor, 
and took to our oars, steering to the broken water, 
ruffled by the nor’-wester, beyond the shelter of the - 
island, convoyed by the six canoes, We socompanied 
+ them some hundreds of yards, and then, suddenly 
hoisting snil, swept by them like an arrow. We pre- 
ferred the prospect of the Ione watery expanse to the 
company of the perverse inebriates of Ugamba, | 
We continued sailing for half an hour, and as it was 
then near sunset, dropped anchor in 75 fost of water, 
The wind, which had swept in atrong guste from the 
north-west, suddenly fell, for in the north-east the 
aspect of the ay had long been threatening. Clouds 
surged up in thick masses from that direction, and 
ast a gloom over the wood-clothed slopes and crests of 
Usugurn, which became almost as bluck as a velvet 
pull, while the Inke grow as quiet as though vitrified 
into glass, Soon the piled up cloud-mass grow ji 
and a portentous zigzag line of deop ble hue rn 
through its contre, from which tho storm seemed to 
issue, I requested the crew to come farther aft, and, 
fnstening a double rope to the stone anchor, prepared 


iar liste ites a) 

then, repelled by the face of the water, it brushed it 
into millions of tiny ripples. The temperature fell to 
62° Fabr., and with this sudden cold down dropped a 
nevere chower of hailstones of great size, which pelted 
‘us with great force, and made our teoth chatter. After 
this the rnin fell in sheets, while the lightning blazed, 
preceding the most dreadful thunder-claps I remember 
to have ever heard, 

The rain, indeed, fell in such quantities that it 
required two men for each acction to keep the boat 
sufficiently buoyant to ride the crest of the waves, 
‘The crew cried ont that the boat was cinking—that, if 
the rain continued in such volume, nothing could save 
us, In reply, I only urged them to bale her out faster. 

The sable masa of Usnguru—as I obwerved by the 
‘bors of intense light which the lightning flashed almost 
every second—was still in front, and L knew, thero- 
fore, thnt we were not being swept very fast to sea. 
Our energies were wholly devoted to keoping our poor 
pelted selves afloat, and this occupied the crew so muck 
that they half forgot the horrors of the blick und dis- 
mal night. For two hours this experience lasted, and 
then, unburdening our breasts with sighs of gladness not 
unmixed with gratitude, wo took our anchor on board, 
and stole through the darkness to the western side of 
Ngovi Island, where, altor kindling a fire, we dried 
our clothes and our wetted bodies, and, over a hot 
potfal of Licbig, affected to laugh ut our lute critical 

In the morning the world appeared ro-born, for the 
sky was a bluish erystal, the shores looked as if fresh 

painted in green, the Iake shone like burnished steel, 1s, 
the emer seemed created for health, Glowing aes 
with new life, we emerged out of our wild arbour of “*""s 
cane and mangrove to enjoy the glories of a gracious 
heaven, and the men relieved their grateful breasts by 
chanting loudly and melodiously one of their most 
animating IES» 

‘As we rowed in this bright mood scross the bay of 
Tzambs, we noticed a lofty mount, which I should 
judge to be fully $000 feet above the lake, towards the 
north-east. From the natives of Usamu Island, wo 
obtained the name of Marsawa for this the most con 
spicuous foature of the neighbourhood. After ob- 
taining @ clear meridian altitude, on a small island 
between Usama and Namungi, we steered for the 
Intter. ‘The art of pleasing was never attempted with 
such effect as at Namungi. Though wo had great 
difficulty in even obtaining a hearing, we persisted in 
the practice of the art with all its amusing variations, 
until our perseverance was finally rewarded, A:young 
fisherman was despatched to listen from the shore, but 
the young wretch merely stared at us. We tossed itito 
his canoe a bunch of beads, and he understood their 
signification, THe shouted out to his fellows on the 
shore, who wore burning with curiosity to sce closor 
the strange bont and strange crew, anonget whom they 
saw a man who was like unto no man they had ever 
een, or heard, or dreamed of, 

A seore of canoes loaded with peaceful, larmless 
souls came towards ua, all of whom begged for beads. 
When wo saw that they could be inspired to talk, we 
suggested to them that, in return for food, abundance 
of bends might be obtained. They instantly raced for 
the banina and plantain groves in great excitement, 
We were so close that we could hear the heavy clusters 
falling under the native machetes, and within # short 


‘time so many bunches were held out to us that we 

Hie to have exhausted many days in such a fasci- 
nating life, but the const of the Vietoria was lengthy, 
the winds not always favourable, and we had @ large 
number of friends in Usukama who might become rest- 
Joss, were we too long absent, We thereforo set eal, 
convoyed a long distsuce by about thirty eanoes, 
ae by light-hearted, guileless creatures in an ex- 
trome state of enjoyment and redundant hilarity. 

"This was altogether a remarkable scene; our ex- 
ploring ont with i its lug-suil set, dragzing meee 
ednoes, whose crews were all intoxicated, and whose 
rood-nature was so excessive as to cause them to supply 
our boat's crew with copious quantities of their wine, 
until all were in an uncommonly joyous mood. It 
would be well worth describing in detail, but I am 
compelled to be brief, After sailing in company a few 
miles, we finally freed ourselves from our hospitable 
wntertainers, and, steering neross the channel to the 
islind opposite Neygano, consted along its woll-wooded 
shores, Perceiving a deep bay farther west, we entered 
it,and near the extreme eastern end of Uvuma anchored 
about 150 yards off the village of Mombiti, 

‘Had we boon better acquainted with the character of 
‘the Wavuma, wo probably should have been less inclined 
to visit their shores, but, ignorant of their ferocity, and 

‘ x 

ma about 8 
the bay of Mombiti, wo were come 
1 point of Iand closely overs with 
rae aelane a iatga Saree rare 

‘us to pursue our way unmolested. 
eles te lth tn Sori cn 
figations of the numerouaindentations. The island 
Toto wih seep, gromy, treeless slopes to a height of 
about 300 the Inke. Herds of enttle were 
care oaks De mie greaeieny Ge le den 
‘The villages were many, but unenclosed, and 


‘yet free mon, with the power 


free or we wore not. If 

2 ian a 


overlapped by 


hile between 


sides spread its emeral 

was Mogasea, 
‘news to him and to his people freely and frankly; 
after I had ended, Magassa translated what the in- 


for day, might show me the hospie 
tality of his country, and that I might enter the Kabaka’s 
Beeesteere antenna 18; Persuaded also by 
my bont’s erew to consent, we rowed to the village of 
Kadsi. Mngassa was in his glory now. His voice 
‘became imperious to his escort of 182 m ven the 
Feathers of his. his curious head-dress waved prouder, and 
iis robo had a sweeping dignity worthy of a Roman 
emperor's, Upon landing, Magassa’s stick wns employed 


i ge 
;, was imitated by him, only that his bow was far 




spi AL ‘voxvuveNvED 


has sal 
a Bbeasere ie cee, ae so 
Serre aelacat 

gos 58 a4 
iti ui fe 



; oe il 

a rank equivalent to "| 



so far as I 

d i 
gather, honour him, were minor causes, which, I ven! 

to consider, were sufficient to win my favourable judg- 
ment, ho should have been eo royally liberal in 

forty magnificent canoes, all painted an 

which I perceived to be the univer- 
sally fayourite . Sn passant, I have wondered 
whether they admire 

F the fleet, an his at 

flaw | } 
pane | had Jed to the fracture, 
| one, and had evidently seen 

i gum-trees, 

banana groves and plantations of the ficus, from the bark 
of which the national dress, or mluyu, is wade, The 
peculiar dome-like huts, each with an attempt at 9 
tico, were buried deep in dense bowers of plantains whieh: 
filled the air with the odour of their mellow rich fruit, 

'The rond wound upward to the summits of green hills 
which commanded exquisite prospects, and down again 
juto the sheltered bosoms of woody nooks, and vales, 

pees 3 Sbesieg Beets 
Fi I ed We Vi 
PE is : 223 2a 

tiie , si 

wicked people 1 

His great love for them, while yet suffering on the cross, 
He nsked His great Father to forgive them. I showed 
‘the difference in character between Him whom white 

t the slaying of 
the pagan and the unbeliever was an act thnt merited 
Paradiso. I Joft it to Mtes and his chiefs to decide 
which was the worthier character. I also sketched in 
brief the history of religious belief from Adain to 





LoL Analg 

perfect confidence might be established between us, 
and T might gain an ‘it into thelr real natures, 

"By this freer converse them [ became, it seemed, a 
universal favourite, and obtained information sufficient 
to fill two octavo volumes. 

M. Linant passed many plensant hours with me. 
Though he had started from Cniro previous to my 
departure from Zanzibar, and consequently could com- 
municate no news from Europe, I still felt that for n 
Utief period I enjoyed civilized life. His cuisine was 

intel] and sympathet 

intelligent m0) 

Eescik aye te (aa SRM EAN MTSE ar 
evenings in the hut enjoyable for weeks, 

: ae A 








a3 Medea 

sé i 




‘The whole of the north coust from Murchison Buy 
presente a panorama of beautiful views, of square table 
topped mounts, rounded hills, and cones forming low 

which run in all directions, but with a general 
inclination east and west, and form, as it were, a natural 

_ view of the outskirts of a pastoral plateau rising 
121- wostward, 


obtained a promise from Magura, the admiral in charge 
of the naval yards at Sessé, that he would endeavour to 
itch fourteon canoes alter us, Meanwhile, Magassa 
left me at Chiwanuko with five canoes, but re- 
torned with only two, alleging that the other three 
leaked so much that they were not seaworthy. He 
suggested also that, ns Magura might cause great 
deluy if left ulone, 1 should proceed with Sentum and 
Scntageya, and leave him in charge of five. Having 
witnessed his vanity and heard of his atrocious 
conduct near Chiwanuko, I etc suspected him of 
desiring to effect some more mischief at Dumo, but I 
was ar to interpose the strong arm, and there- 
fore left him to answer for his shortcomings to Mesa, 

who would doubtless hear of them before long. 
After leaving Dumo and Sessé north of us, we bad 
a boundless horizon of water on the east, while on the 
west stretched w crescent-shaped bay, bordered by a 
dense forest, ending south at Chawasimba Point. From 
here another broad bay extends southwards, and is 
torminated by the northernmost headland of Usongora, 
Tato this bay issues the Alexandr Nile in one 
erful deep stream, which, from its volume and 
Sok iron colour, may bo traced several miles 
out. At its mouth it is about 160 yards wide, 
and at two miles nbove narrows to about 100 yards. 
We attempted to ascend higher, but tho current 
was 20 strong that we made but slow progress, 

a é x 

: in front 

: ‘songora, stretches itly illimitable =» 

rilvery sea; but towards the cr ea or two lofty 

is are visible, situnted about tw miles. 

from the mainland, serene and royal in their Jono 


‘The first villago we halted at on tho const of Ue 

was Makongo, Itnestles ina sheltered nook ina bay-like 

indentation of the lofty mountain wall crowded with 
groves and huts scattered under their impenc- 

truble shndes—with a strip of grey gravel beach gently 

| sloping from the waters edge about 40 fect upward to 

| where it meets the gions Taxury of the grove, 
‘There were about a dozen natives clad in dingy gont- 

kins seated on the beach, sucking the potent maramba 
from gourds when wo came up, and without quostion we 
Tnuled our boat and two canoes high and dry. To our 

| greetings the natives responded readily and. civilly 

enough. With rather glazed eyes they offered us some 
of the equatorial nectar. ha eye jd been long 
on this day, and we were tired, nnd it might be that we 
sighed for such cordial refreshing drink as was now 
to us. At any rate, we necepted their 
ible gif, and sucked heartily, with bland 
approval of tho delicacy of the liquid, and cordial 
inks for their courtesy. An observation for longi 
tude was taken, the natives looking on pleased and 
gratified, ‘To all our questions as to the names of the 
localities and islands in view they replied like friends. 
Sunset came, We bade each other good-night. At 
midnight there was a fearful drumming heard, which 
kept us all awake from the sheer violence of the sound. * 
“Is anything wrong?” we demanded of Sentum 
and Sentageya. “Oh, no!” they answered, Still the 
drumming sounded hoarsely through the durk night, 
and the desire for sleep fled. 

a ll 

of your people? Do our fires: 
phish we slot exposed to he cold night? 

What did you come here for?” 
We came to rest for the night, and to buy food, 
snd is that a crime? Do you not travel in your canoes? 
people received you as you received us this 
‘morning, what would you say? Would you not say 
they wore bad? Ab, my friend, I did not expect 
‘that you who were so good yesterday would turn out 
thus! But never mind; we will go away quickly 
and quietly, and the Kabaka Mites shall hear of this, 

can ween us, 

“If you wish food, I will send some bananas to yonder 
island, but you must go away from thia, lest the people, 
who wish to Hehty ts should break out,” %. 

We soon shoved the boat and two canoes into the 
water, and Tund my boat's crew embarked and rowed 
away a fow yards, But Sontum was angry with the 
people, and instend of ly dopartit ms loudly 
expostulating with them, To prevent mischief and the 
‘massacre of his entire party, I shouted to Sentum, com 
manding him to embark ut once, which after a short 
time he obeyed, growling, 

We steered for Musira Island, about three miles from. 
Makongo, where wo found four or five canoes from 
Kamira’s country loaded with coffee and butter. The 
Waganda, Sentum and Sentageya, with feelings em- 
Dittered against the natives, seized upon several 
packages of coffee, which drew a loud remonstrance 
from the natives. ‘The Waganda sailors, ever ready for 
‘a scramble, followed their chiefs’ example, and assisted 

_ | 

absolved from that ad steadiness whi amy 
"position ast lender of half wild men me fo 
“ngsume in their pretence, all my natural Mlnsilty of 

burrowed and poly with frcatata eile 
shadowing pyrumida of vines and creepers, which hnd 
‘become woven and plaited by their numbers into a 
eolid mass. 

What eccentricities of creation T became acquainted 
with in this truanting in the wild woods! Anta, red, 
black, yellow, grey, white, and particoloured, peopling 
a miniature world with unknown emmet races, 
were some members of the belligerent warrior ae 
always threatening the harmless, and seeking whom 
they might annoy, and there the ferocious food-pro« 
viders, notive for the attack, ranging bole, bough, twig 
and leaf for prey; the meck and industrious artisans: 
sbeorbed in defending the poor privilege of a short 

j the frugal neuters tugging enormous Toads 
towards their cunningly constructed nests; sentrivs om 
watch at the doors to defscd the approaches to: their 
fastnesses, ‘They swarmed among the folinge in 
columns of fornging and plundering saranders and 
countless hordes of ruthless destroyers. In the decays 
ing vegetation I heatd all around rae the xylophagous 
larva of groat beetles bard at work by thousands, and 
mw myrinds of termites destroying with industrious 
fury everything that lay in their path, whether animal 
cor vegetable. Armies of psylke and moths innumerable 
were startled from the bushes, and from every bough 
shrilled the tiresome cieada, ever noisy, Here the 
relentless ant-lions prepared their pitfalls, and there the 

movements, and Inugh at the ferocity of the savage 
hearts which beat in those thin dark figures; for Tam a 
part of Nature now, and for the prosent as invulnerable 
us itself. As little do they know that human eyes 
survey their forins from the summit of this Inke-girt 
ale ns that the eyes of the Supreme in heaven are 
upon them, How long, I wonder, shall the people 
these lands remain thus ignorant of Him who 
ereated the gorgeous sunlit world they look upon each 
day from their lofty upland! How long shall their 
untamed ferocity be n barrier to the Gospel, and how 
long shall they remain unvisited by the Toacher! 
What a land they possess! and what an inland sca! 
How steamers afloat on the Inke might cunse Urari to 
shake hands with Usongora, and Uganda with Usukuma, 
make the wild Wavama friends with the Wazinga, and 
unite the Wakerewé with the Wngana! A great 

i —— 

‘on the island on the ground oceupied by our camp, for 
there was no other spot where euch Hoes ol ara 
been wrought, and probably the victims were token 
in canoes, and deposited in this Ividden reeoss, that 
strangers might not be alarmed at the sight of the 
Todies, or of auch evidence of violence ag the hatchet- 
cloft skull. Probably, leo, these strangers were 
murdered for thoir cargo of coffee or of butter by the 
natives of the mainlund, or by « Inter arrival of 
strangers like my own Waganda, who because of their 
numerical superiority had begun their molestation and 
robbery of the coffee traders, without other cause than 
that they were strong and the tradors weak, 

About 5 p.w., having long before returned to camp, 
I sw on tho horizon Mngnssa's fleet of canoes, and | 
counted fourteen. Idespatched Safeni and some of the 
Waganda in n canoo to the sinall islands we passed 
just’ before ronching Makongo, begging Magassa to , 
‘hasten and join mo early next morning, as we were 
short of provisions, and starvation would ensue if we 
were delayed in our voyage. Safeni returned about 
9 vat, with a request from Magassa that I would go 
‘onas carly as 1 wished, and » promise that he would 
follow mo to camp, 

I waited, however, for Magnesa until 10 A. and as 

Alica Island—which Sentum and Sentageya advised 
me was the best place to touch at in order to make o 

pou ects a 

alin their fry, Tasmmed an 

Sete eet ate 

EE ieoes 
reached the Bumbireh 
peas: ‘Sronp 

As wo started ‘noon from ene Tsland, being 
of seeing 



we lenve here without 

Besides, if 

where antl obtain 



sent him 
with a 







/man Was on | oe nate ae 

nil returned, his faco radiant, Ste wells 
‘there ix no fear, ‘They tay we must stop 
vil ee en. 

“Ohana wt their shauri.” 
While Safeni six men rushed up and 
seized the oare, a 
a ci Eon ore 
and endeavoured to prevent them, raised their 
ee I shouted out, “Let them go, 
A loud choer grected the seizure of the onrs. 

tu yon aa mn on may begin to prepare your- 
selves,” he said scornfull) 

“Thanks, my bold friend,” I muttered to myzolf. 
“Those are the truest words we have heard 

‘The two men were retiring up the hill. “Hore, 
Safeni," I sid, Tittb thes two fhe rodoltla tn your 

direction, Murubo and Fee 
and Hamoidah were set to kindle a fire, and I took 
‘my shot gun to shoot birds, Within half an hour I 

exploring bont axing towards Kagelyi dissipated all yn, 
alaria, concern, nd fenr. 

‘Aa the keel grounded, fifty men hounded into the rae 
water, dragged me from the boat, and danced me 
round the camp on their shoulders, amid much laughter, 
ani clapping of hands, grotesque wriggling of forms, 
and real Saxon hurrahing. 

Frank Pocock was there, his fhee lit up by fulness 
of joy, but when L asked him whore Frederick Barker 
was, and why he did not come to weloome me, Frank's 
face clouded with the sudden recollection of our loss as 
he auawered, “ Becnuse he died twelve days ago, Sir, 
and he lies there,” pointing gravely to a low mound 
of ewrth by the lake! 

aus, manera 0 708 MPAONY OF PuRONRCR Aandi 

‘(From a photogroph by the author.) 

= — | 

hut—the dogs 

Fred Barker, according to Frank, had good 

fill the middle of April; after which he began to ox- 
perience aguish fits, On the 22nd he had enjoyed a 
hippopotamus hunt on the hore between Kngohyi and 
Lutari, and on the morning of the 23rd had bathed in 
the lnke and euton n hearty early breakfhst. At 9 Ast, 
howover, he camplained of fecling ill, aud lay down, 
“Almost iimmediately a cold fit seized him, avd his blood 
scorned to stagnate in its veing, Frank and Barker’ 


arrived at Ka, 
ion of the lake: on the 6th he 

Kipingiri, chiof of Lutori, and brother of Kaduma, 
chief of Kagehyi, had formed a conspiracy with Kur 
rereb, chief of Kyetizi, and the chief of Igusa, to unite | 
thoir forces to attack and plunder the camp. But the | 

sounding Kaduma, had distributed ammunition, with 
every intention of employing their best abilities to 
resist the attack. Prince Kaduma’s loyalty to his 
absent friend, and Frank and Fred’s bold conduct, with 
the sudden death of the chief of Igusn, had coused 
Kigingir to abandon the wicked conspiracy. 
informed me also that he had suffered one or 
two slight attacks of fever, but that he had “easily 
shaken them off." The Wangwana were wonderfully 
recovered from the miserable attenuation which the 
‘seant fire of Ugogo and Urimi had wrought in their 
frames, and some were so robust and fat that I scarcely 
knew them, Upon examining the stock of goods left 
in the store-room, I waa gratified to discover thnt 
Frank had been extremely economical. I found him 
in perfect accord with Prince Kaduma, good friends 
with Sungoro, and respected by the Wangwana; 
and on inspecting his work there was nothing in 
is conduct that did not deserve hearty approval and 
Our return to Kngehyi was followed by Sabbath 
ropoas and rest, fairly earned and much needed. When 
I placed myself under the spring-balance scales, T found 


eecing him, or of 
ue Wo 

he communicated it to everyone, 
and so it soon came to Rwoma's ears, 

‘But King Rwoma, being an ally of Mirambo, enter- 
tained a sarong ahetin f ‘Wangwana, and he had ex- 
aggerated ideas of the appearance of the white men who 
aeons ‘Scme ailly child of nature had told 

Wi there wae white man at Kagehyi with long red 
ay Sees eyes"—it was probably Frank, 
re ali naar of him certainly—and the 
report induced Rwoma to send an embassy to Kagehyi, 
He said: “ Rwoma sends salaama to the white man, 
He docs not want the white man’s cloth, beads, or wire, 
and the white man must not pass through his country} 
Rivoms docs not want to see him or any other white 
man with long red hair down to bis shoulders, white 
face, and big rod Rwoma is not afraid of him, 
but if the white man comes near his country, Rwoma 
and Mirambo will fight him.” To this bold but frank 
the Wasukuina added other reasons to prove 
that the overland route was impassable, ‘The rond 
between Muanza and Mweré was closed by factions 
tribes. Rwoma was an ally of Mirambos Bi his 
neighbour, was un ally of the predatory V Watuta ; 
the chief of Nehoza, hard by him, was at war with the 
Watuta; Antari, king of Ihangiro and Bumbireh, 
would anturally resent our approach; ‘Mankorongo, 
Sis ciesariok Swart of Uoaik coal only bo appeased 
with such tribute as would be absolutely ruinons, x 
I proceaded south to Unyanyembé, the Wi 
could never be held together, and the Expedition 
would dissolve like snow. 
By water whnt was the outlook? Magassa and his 

4 — 

flect were not to be heard of, Ho ad probably returned, ! 
from Musim Island, afraid to risk his ennoes) in tho 71 

mgh weathor. Yot my di me to to 
fo Taka Albort ust bo i 
ty word of honour that I would attempt it, Yet tho | 

able man, ond a friend if he takes a fancy: 
to one.” I pe Lukongeh, but another attack 
oh Liver ee Re aoa err My system ~ 
wae mnch injured Uy exposure and privations, and 
i my delirium I fancied hs leading with the 

ing, and tl ut en 's 

Lnkengeh, Lang * dothing but Taongshe ted 

On the 28th, Frank and his party returned with 
fifty canous and thelr erows, the command of 
two chisfeand the premier? of Ukerowé. I 
Frank's hand with ardour, but was dismayed 

- al 

° ieeeqeetangele. i 
edition to Ukerewé! This was by no means 

‘ngwana and the natives, I refused, nnd told the chiefs 
‘they could accompany me back to Ukerewé, as I would 
‘we Lukongoh myself, 

Accordingly, on the 29th, after providing myself 
swith prusents’ such ne might win any African's 
goodwill—fine roga, blankets, crimson cloth, and 
‘striped cloths of Kutch and Muscat, besides bends of 
arare quality, and other things ‘too numerous. to 
mention, equal to about 800 dollars’ worth—T started 
for Msossi, Lukongeh’s capital on the north side of 

We halted a few hours at Weai, and its curious 
granite rocks were photographed hy me, and in the 
afternoon continued our journey, arriving at Kisorya 
at 4 Po, whore we camped. The next morning, 
about 9 at, we passed through Rugedsi Channel, 
which connects Spoke Gulf with Majita Bay. Tt was 
6 fect wide in some places, and if left undisturbed 
there was avery indication from the grasses and 
water-plants which grew in it that it would soon be 
choked, but by vigorous punting with poles we suc 
cooded in getting through. Somo of the Wakerewé say 
that Majita mountain is separated from the mainland 
by a similar channel, at which I should not be sur- 
prised, We reached Maossi, and recoived a hut to 
hiouse ourselves in, an ox fur meat, bananns for vewe- 
tables, and milk for drink. 

At 9 aor. of the 31st we advanced upon the anlic 
‘council of Ukerewé, which, seated on some rising rocks 
ons plain, was qnite picturesque, with the gay figure of 

Lukongeh in the centre, round which the lesser lights 

(Tule nate vopurte to te tu ov wich Leatenout ath aud Mr.O/Nell were lataly Allo by the Wrhavema 





founder of Ukerewé, Ruhinda TL, ia the ne 
memory ia most revered. Ho brought his 
‘in canoes from Usongora and iro, which 
by the name of U-wys. He 
it was who introduced the plantain and banana plants 
into Ukerewé, The aborigines, whom he conquered, 
were called Wa-kwya—another name for the inhabit- 
ants of Majita Mount, A small remnant of this 
tribe fen live on the south coast of Ukerewé, opposite 


‘Tho royal repulchre is at Kitari, ‘Tho hill. on which 
it is situnted is seen in the photograph of the bont at 
the landing-plice of Msossi, and an eminent chief of 
Ukerewé hos the charge of it to protect it inviolate. 
‘Tho kinge are all buried in a sitting posture. 



| lla. 


eagle rete ti ashy eae wi a a ee 
saya rig which many of tho Wakorové wae i 

else aru oF Wiel skipri see ened 
Teg e eemainene tcattae Co tune ka ee 
diffgrenca Between the Wakerewé and the Watatora 


(From a platoroph by the dato) 

existe between a Nubian and a Syrian Arab. Tho 
Wataturn are light-coloured, straight, thin-nosed and 
thin-lipped, while the Wakerewé are a mixture of the 
Ethiopic and negro type. 

‘Tho king is supposed to be endowed with spore 
natural power, in Lukongeh seizes every opportunity 
to heighten this belief. He ix believed to be enabled fo 
ereate a drouglit at plensure, and to cause the land to 


ies, “ Morning! 


ura?” which, translated, si; 


‘The stories current in this country about the witch- 

craft practid by the people of Ukara 


“ Waché! waché!" “ Waché 


Island prove 


st be arlked 
pe srichnesbrcietanedad street 

sy 1pose 

ts of tho lover is hnrd indeed, as fre- 

after marringe demands are made for eattle, 

vata ae a refusal of which renders the marriage 

ntl children have been born, when all connection 
with her blood relatives ceases, 

‘Thieves, adultorers, und murderers are put to death: 

ly decapitation. ‘They may eecape death, howover, 

Wy booting the shaves of the party they havé 


Coils of brass wire are much coveted by the 
‘akerewé, for the adornment of their wives, who wear 
it in such numerous circlets round their necks ns to 
sive thom at a distance an appearance of wearing rutls, 
‘Wristlets of orpes and brass and iron, and anklets of 
the same metal, besides armlets of ivory, are the 
favourite decorations of the males. 

Families in mourning are distinguished by bands of 
plantain leaf round their beads, and by a sable pig- 
iment of a mixture of pulverized charcoal and butter. 

The matrons who have fallen into the sore of life are 

liar for their unnatural length of breasts, which, 
tlopending like pouches down to the navel, are bound 
to their bodies by cords. ‘The dress of men nnd women 


them, otherwise 
to give you twenty- 







fautng »goldan ight wean the waters 

ag2 G328 



sae a 
thee! Gerrets and prosperous voyage | “neroes 
wide waters.” 

‘Kazaradai Island, on which we rested. for the. 

‘wo beheld a most glorious sunset. ‘The western 

Be tines Sais sea aglow for about 
an honr with it gold, which tinted mountain, 
plain, and with the reflection of the Justrous 

Next day wo sailed for Wawizua Island; and on the 
20th, passing by the picturesque islands of Mysomeh 

food here to 
that we requited and 

him send 


Eee let them 
he white chiats frend, 
“After promising to perform all 

ithe white 


rahe pa shia ot savage only 
respects force, power, aaa decision; and that 
he is totally ignorant of the principles which govern — 

‘atives ef Babich who bad been brooght 
rth: Gholtks aud iho: two! cits. were therefore fare 

mitted to depart with the king of Irota and his 

At 9 A.t, the king of Iroba appeared again, this 
* Antari, or tho Hon,” i8 a favourite uame with the Wabuma tribes, 

en _ 

securing my enfoty. ‘Tell Antari that 
‘the white man is not. a woman, and that lying words will 
‘not be swallowed by him, He means to go to Uganda, 
whether Antari will lot him or not, If Antari fights, 
tell him to remember how tho white man from 
Bombireh. ‘The white man wants peace, but he is not 
afraid of Antari. Now sos any see 

Antari, and to-morrow, must have his 


acl | 



them to retreat 
Our work: of ch 





and a 
The Wagnnda 

‘Lill far awa; 

ment was 

‘Waganda, and 

demands; the Wangwrasa 





and his 
was Mtesa who. 
and also 




"fifth time since arris 

Far different wns the scene on this day around the 

* This custom of sending walking-aticks also obtains in Debomey. 

(Prec 9 peter by the Ate) 



(0m a phot Ny the Aetor) 



‘8 trot when on an entorpriso of w warlike 

8 The war-crien rae emt cat ed 

of ‘one night, Ks | 
his own hand a lover who had to 
numerous Dulcineas, Besides the 

camped north of Nana Masurie’s people; to the 
Micwonda with is formidable legion was igned | 

Serpe 4 i 
of the vnst camp, was jealously 
bodyguard, the legions of the Katekivoy 





‘The fighting men of each canoe owe obedience only 
to their Generalin-chief; the sailors or paddlers obey 
Gabunga, the Grand Admiral of the Fleet, who, ngain, 
is controlled by the General-in-chief. 

Many readers, unless detained to consider the naval 
forve of Mtesa, might be contented with the mere 
figures giving the numerical strength of his war 
vessels, But let us for the sake of curiosity calculate 
the number of men required to man these 230 effective 

‘The largest canoe seen by me in this fleet measured 



il Haute alan iEh i! 


Ihave done me, 
as well 




the watore edge to exprow his mtfaton ab thee 
"said he, “and show them what 






“blood ! blood 



On receiving orders to launch it, T selectod ae 
paddlers and 150 musketeors of the 
stand by to embark as soon as it should be aflont, Soon 
appointed Tori and one of my own best men to 
superintend its navigation, and told them to close the 
gate of the fort as soon as *they pushed off from the 
land, About 1000 men were then set to work to 
launch it, and soon it was floating in the water, and 
when the crew and garrison, 214 souls, were in it, it 


was evident to all that it rode the waves of the lake 
eawily and enfely— 
“The invention ail admired, andl each howe ho 

‘To be the inventor road, wo euxy 4 noemed 

Once found, which yot unfound mont would have thonght 

and a burst of applause from the army rewnzded the 

Several dong blue Kaniki and white and red clothe 
wore hoisted above this curious structure, which, when 
closed upall round, appeared to move of its own accord 
inn very mysterious manner, and to conceal within its 
silent and impenetrable walls some dread thing, well 
calculated to strike terror into the mind of the ignorant 

g sire 

ATE $3284 gi erga iP alls eae 
HUN ea ae 
(Sain Bhainag 




convene 21 yascome # net 

blindly, knowing no guide save the instinct of eelf= 
preservation. te 

As soon as an opportunity permitted, T looked after =" 
tho laggards of my arly, and by dint of soverity: 
kept Bie iem together, but three or four were more 
than half inclined to give in before we breathed cooler 
air, and could congratulate ourselves upon our safety, 

ndignant at such a murderous course, for [ mentally 
taxed Mtesa with this criminal folly, I maroled my 
party far from the route of the Waganda army, und 
though repeatedly urged by Mtcan to attach myself 
to his party, I declined to do ao until he should explain 
fo me why he bad commanded tho camp to be 
without giving warning to his people or to myself, his 
gaest. His messonger at once ucquitted him of such 
gross recklessness, and declared that ho had arrested 
several porsona suspected of having fired the camp, 
and that he himself bad guffered the loss of goods 
and women in the flames, I thereupon, glad that 
he was not the author of the catastrophe, sent my 
salvams, and a promiae to rejoin him at Ugungu, on 
the Ugnnda side of the Ripon Falls, which L did 
on the 18th October. 

Sioa-Moy, tn the Nynam tongoos rount, openmonihol, se, snl 

oreatury, 20 luchos lung. 

of Uganda, I 



anh Peiiaeg fadas le 



’ co was te fiat of Uganda?” 



to the introduction 5 | 




it aid ve K 

become allattention, and every fibre 


face, and tho 
somewhat to 


the: Sean 



a HCE 
ya lille 




in the attempt to land on the island, 
had formed ito 







Upon returning to Uddu from the war, tho 
chief sent 300 women, 600 children of both 

tract of country * bordering upon Tnyoro, whispered to _ ss, 
his saints “Hm, seni as beer Be ‘Suna praios & 
Nomujurilwa ; lob ur gata epee eae 
he has other chiefs as brave as Namujar 

Requesting and obtainin, ave ee ‘ho 
vst so my, aaa Seana 

after arriving at his chief ti, he beat his war-dram 
and summoned his people to 

‘Taking with hin 300 ead of cattle he crossed the 
frontier of Tnyoro, where he slew his cattle and mado 
his followers eat beef to make themselves strong. 
Having devoured the meat, his people informed ries 
that they were now as strong 4s lions and all prepared 

for wars 

Setuba smiled and said to them, “I have given you 
800 hond of my own cattle, go and bring me 3000 lend 
and T shall consider that you have pnid mo for what 
you have eaten.” 

‘Tho warriors responded to Setuba's words with a 
shout, and at once set out to collect spoil from the 
Wanyoro, while Setuba and a chosen bond remained in 
camp. ‘The Waganda, however, were promptly met by 
the Wanyoro in considerable numbors, and after a few 
houra were defented and pursued as far as Setuba’s 

The chief received he fugitives sternly and 
“Where are those lions whom I lately fed with my 
cattle? Are you about to return to U; 
ompty bands? Yes, go on, and as ae 
that Sotuba, your chief, is dead.” 

Betubo sefzed ive spears and shield, and fale is his 
chosen band bounded out of his camp to meet the 
advancing Wanyoro, 

‘Fach Mung fs invostod with w barony oF county 
Wiis high ule and with sect honey eve opi code 

joined. “Tho st danicdn of iy wold ental of 



rebuild Lis majesty’s camp at Jinja, as many of the huts 
i tate, and many ¢ 's 

wore ino ae nae si we of Suna’s 
women were com} to open nin. 
Sekebobo introduced Rabie to the Emperor, and 

preferred his request to him, who graciously acceded to 
it, adding that it was not every day that men came to 
ask leave to do him a servico: they generally asked 
him for some gift or other. 

Kasindula was profuse in his thanks, and thon 
departed with 2000 men from Sekebobo to assist 
him in the work of reconstructing the imperial camp 
wt Jinja, and the kind old chief also gave him several 
Jonge cannos, to transport the working force scross 
Napoleon Channel, 

‘The young chiof Jost no time alter his arrival at 
Tinja, but industriously set to work, and in a few days 
had entirely rebuilt the houses, and surrounded them 
with their respective courts, and had cleared the whole 
camp from much accumulated rubbish, until the camp 
would have pleased even fastidious Suna himself. 

He then caused the wardrum to be sounded, and, 
responding to its ominous call, all who were capable of 
lifting the spear, dwelling in the neighbourhood of 
Jinja, gathered round Kasindula, who said :— 

“ Warriors of Uganda and children of Suna, listen to 
me. You know how, after Suna slew the rebellious 
‘Wasoga before Kitenteh Island, that the chiefs of 
Usoga all camo and swore alloginnoe to him; and how 
when Suna hod returned to Uganda the Wasoga chief 
Rura headed another rebellion, and challenged Sana to 
return to Usoga to fight him. When Suna heard the 
challenge of the boastful Rura, he only smiled and 
said, * Let him wait a little.’ Suna is too derae fight 
with Rura, for Kasindula, a Mtongolch of Sekebobo, is 
sufficient for him. To-night we march to Nakaranga, 
and to-morrow morning before sunrise Rura shall sloep 


Se eueen Jeol dedi wed tele 
” i 5 i she 

1S prepare’ 

for in the fourth month you shall see me and my 
in your country, and I shall eat it up clean, 
‘shall nothing be left alive in it." 

‘This was the last war in which Suna was 
‘After three days’ desporate fighting the Wi 
and their allies were defeated, and Kytawa 
confederate kings were compelled to fly for 
the island of Kishalka, where they were besieged, until 
all the kings implored forgiveness, and swore to beoome 
tributary to hi 

Falling ill 

25) NATION'S emOIce, bls 

his einige eesti, ‘hee ae 
Kajumba, his eldest son, his successor. 

This Kajumba, the Prince Imperial, however, fel 
no favourite with the Waganda, for he aypeara to 
been a violent, Rac ltoulsnn youth of gigantic size ss 
strength. These ine ities recommended him strongly 
to Suna, who thonght that with sucha snecessor Uganda 
would retain its prestige and supremney, and appre 
Tended nothing of danger to his own people in a 
person of such violent passions; and, indood, it ia to bo 
doabted whether, after exercising with the utmoat 
licence his own. pee authority, he even thought 
‘them worthy of 

Knjaomba was ca ‘avowile and the warloving 
fathor on his deathbed pointed out with pride to his 
chiefs the heroic qunlities of the princo, reminded 
them how when a mere boy he had slain a buffalo Mie 
a club and an elephant with a single spear, and 
assured thei with his lvtest breath that Kajumba 
would become more renowned than either lion-like 
Kimera or renowned Nokivingi. 

After his father's death Prince Kajumbaacized hia 
woighty spear and ample shicli and proclaimed bim= 
solf his father's successor and choice, and announced 
hia determination to uphold his dignity to tho death. 
‘The chiefs, however, fearing Kajumba'a violence, laid 
hands on him, and bound him hand and foot, and 
selected the mild-spoken, large-eyed boy Mtos, and 
made him Emperor of Uganda by acclamation, 

Suna was then buried with all the usual pomp 
attending such ceromonies in Uganda; and the young 

fon maskod by tho fiir -spoech ond large. eyes, 




of ancient Pistol) =e 
ith h 



Seiten ceeaines ‘the sea: 
lost patriarch, or a prose romance, for there is 
enough for a great work in the tale Subadu 

If we begin to speculate aa to who this 
Dlameless priest, really waa, and whether 
does not bear some dim and vague resemblance 
historles of Adam or Nosh, banded down 
generation to generation through remote ti 
an unlettered people, we may easily: 
‘a maze of wild theories und conjectures, 
however, just ns much ground for building 
suppositious, and to pluusibly demonstrate them 
actualities and facta, as there i for many other fables 
now generally accepted as veritics. 

It is impossible, while reading the tale of Kintu, tho 
Blameless Priest, not to be reminded at one time of 
‘Adam, at another of Noah—for both Adam and 
aerray the. heen ee and are as Kinta 
is swid to have found Uganda and the neighbouring: 
lands, In the Beleal Keay Kimera, “the mighty hunter,” 

Nimrod, and in the children 
of the ipa can suspect a faint pathic, to 
tho shameless Ham. The prolific wife, and no less 
prolific cow, goat, sheep, and the wonderful he 
plant, bave theit counterparts in the traditions of 
every people under the sin, And do we not our 
selves believe 

“That oll began 

Ta Bilon’s shade, and one created ian"? 
The ingenious mind can also find the Laie dee 
the Rinse flying Kibaga in the ree 
destroyed that who 

the first-born of Egypt, or 

if Fae 

Petalatattal 32 



BFE Sm. 


S Seegesseses 
=f 4 

above forms a roapectabl 
fora country in Central Africa, and proves Us 
be a monarchy of no mean antiquity, if the n 
names may be taken as any indication, Many 
may also have been furgottet—to be resuscitated 

by some future traveller with the patience and time 
‘command to rescue them from olivion, 


shading it with its 

garden, which ho views with 
Inid out in several plats, 

Fn : 

patches of millets, sesamum, and 
‘the house and courts, and. cabling them, are the 
extensive banana and plantain plantations and grai 
cops, which furnish his principal food, and from 
of cabana whines cet eb 
his potent pombé, Interspersed among nA 
are (se u fig trees, from the bark of which 
he manufactures his cloth, Beyond the plintations 
is an extensive tract left for grazing, for the common 


Within the outer court we come to a small sqnare 
hut, sacred to the genius of the fimily, the houschold 
Muszimu, ‘This genius, by the ducs paid to him, scems 

|, and horn 
stuck into the earth, sufllee to propi 
2 by examen sed ts fal, ca be eee 
‘ide entra i 





hay a 
cease will 




first rane 

attentive to his emallest wishes, Hoe was the gon a 

Mtongoleh or sub-chief, and his name was Magassa. ‘To 
his other desirable qualities might be added a fine set 

in pees 

As Mtesa grew to man's estate, the boy 
also became 9 young mun, for he was the emo 
nge as his master, and, retaining and improving those 
qualities which first attracted the monnrch’s yes, was 
promoted in time to be a Mtongoleh of the body- 

guard, and a double-barrelled gan was put into his 
fas with the power of gunpowder, and a few 
bullets and percussion cops, which caused the heart 
of young Magassa to bound with joy. Perhaps ho wns 
oven pronder in the possession of'n gun than he. was of 
his rank, for frequently the Mtongoleh of the body 
guard hus only the empty name to boust of. 

However, being Mtongolch (or colonel), he was 
liable to be despatched at a moment's notice to distant 

rts of the Empire on epecial service, and the day 
came finally when Magasaa was chosen, 

Imagine a young British subaltern despatched by 
the Queen's command, specially chosen tyes Queen 
for special service, How the young heart palpitates, 
and the nerves tingle with delight! He spurns the 
ground, and his head aspires to the stars! If a young 
Brit officer feels so joyful at a constitutional sove- 
rei choice, what must the cleot of a despotic 
autocrat like the Emperor of Uganda feel? 

No sooner has he left the imperial presence with tha 
proad command ringing in his ears than his head 
seems to swell, and almost. bursta from delirious sia 
His back, hitherto bont Strong long wervi ile dnd, 
has suddenly become rigid and straight us the staff 

about for a fit man to. succeed 
sparkling, bright face 

+ Mogassa, 
up Pokino's land and name, for old Pokino has for 
FePipune; vane cried wid oad ; 
yanai, yanzi !" esch time Beth epunie caren 


his checks in the dust; and then, sprit to. his 
feet, he seized his spear, and, holding it as if in 
the act of launching it, he proclaimed aloud, “By the 
Emperor's orders, I go to eat up Pokino, I will eat 
him clean out of Iand and name, and Magassa shall 
become Pokino, Emperor, behold me!” and again he 
fell to the ground, screaming his thankful Twiyanzis, 
and loyally abasing himself in the dust. 
After the levee was over, Mugassn, enger to change 
his name for Pokino’s, beat his war-drum, unfolded his 
banner, and mustored his followers, and, like the fell 
leopard, pounced upon purblind Pokino, whom he 
quickly deprived of life, land, and name, and in place 
of their former owner became their master. But with 
even old Pokino's vast estates and Inrge possessions the 
young Pokino was apparently discontented, 
afterwards the Ree ‘commanded him to “eat up’ 
Namujurilwa, the Achilles of Uganda, and it is to 
young Pokino's thirst for power and riches that 
Majwara, an infant son of that grent chief, beeame a 
tlave to Njara of Unyanyembé, from whom I be 
chased his freedom in 1871, I afterwards sent him 
to Livingstone, to whom young Majwara ministered 
faithful service until that grest traveller's dewth. 
With the fall of Namujurilwa, young Pokino became 
Lord of all Uddu, from the Katonga valley to the 
Alexandra Nile, a district embmeing over 3000 
square miles, with twenty sub-chiefs recognizing him 
as their master, possessing two great capitals, Namuju- 
rilwa's at Masaka, and Pokino’s, hundreds of women- 
slaves, and thousands of youthful slaves of both saxée, 
with cattle also by the tliousund, and chief of a popu 
lation numbering over 100,000, What a Sas this 
—from the keeper of the lavatory to the Lord of Uddu f 
Pokino’s life at his capital of Uddu, Masaka, is 
almost regal. He has “eaten up” the lands of two 


which he is told is Mutn Naige, 
trp the pa Le 


Descending from the slopes of the snow pee at 
he marches with incredible speed bene ral) 
wi ong ea et of ai pers 
frantically brave natives, collects of atraight- 
nosed, thin-lipped, and comely women bet children, 
and drives them towards Uganda. 

Several difficulties present themselves in the 
The plain of Usongora is covered with salt and 
which, intemperately eaten, causes many deaths; an 
in the valleys spout up mud-springs, and from the 
summits of conical hills strange fire and «moke isa, 
and now and then the very earth utters a rumbling 
sound, and appears to shake, 

‘The Wanyoro, also, by thousands, combine with the 
natives of Gambaragara to dispute his return, They 
lay nmbuscades for him, and obstinately harass ali 
night and day. But Pokino's spirit is up in arma, 
defies the supernatural noises of that Land onan 
Usongora, and by skill and sagacity avoids the meshes 
laid to entrap bim, and, when opportunity affords, 
snares his ambushed cnomies und annihilates them, 
and finally appears in Uganda at the imperial eapital 
op a spoil of cattle and slaves fit to gladden even 

the imperial licart, 

‘The Emperor appoints a day to receive him and his 
warriors, und, that meed may be given only to the 
‘brave, hns caused to be brewed immense potfuls of 
potent pombé, which shall serve as a test to point out 
the brave and the coward, 

‘Tho day arrives. The Emperor is seated in unusual 
state, with his harem behind him, his chiefs on either 
hand in order of rank, his musketeers on guord, and his 
drummers and musicians close by, while aloft wave the 
crimson-and-white-barred standards 
empire, Before the Emperor aro arranged the pote 
of testebeer. 

= ho asks “'Tekch?" and agnin 
renewed acclamation, and, | 



other gifts brought to Mtesa; for the Katekiro, alias 
Pokino, alins Magnssa, is now Premier, First Lord, and 
Secretary of State! But what next? 

One day, while on n visit to my quarters, I permitted 
hit to examine my store of medicines. On sspaiing 
the various uses of laudanum, he remarked, to 
surprise, with a sigh, Ab! that is the medicine 
wish to have. Can you not spare some for me 7” 

Poor Magassa! poor sor Pokino! poor Katekiro! He is 
alrendy watching, while yet young, in the prime and 
vigour of manhood, for he knoweth not the hour when 
‘the Lord of the Cord may beckon to him, 

Tt is left for some fature traveller to tell us of his 
interview with Kasuju, the chief exeutioner. 


‘The curtain rolls up, and discloses a hill covered with 

tall conical huts, whose tops peep ont above the foliage 
of plantains and bananas, and lofty fences of cane, 
Up the hill's dually ascending slopes run broad 
smooth avenues, flanked by cane palisades, behind 
which clusters of ete show grey under a blazing enn, 
amid the verdure of the leafy groves around them. ‘Tha 
avenues aro thronged by natives, clad in picturesque 
costumes, White clothes gleam in the sunshine, in 
strong contrast to red and brown. ‘The peoplo are 
wonding their way to the imperial quarters on the 
summit of the hill. While no ingress is pormitted, 
they crowd around the gates in ea gossip, exohang- 
ing morning greetings. 

Buddenly the murmur of voices conses, and the long 
rumbling roll of a kettle-drum is heard, announcing 
that the monarch is seated on the burzal, ‘The gatos 
are at once drawn aside, and a multitude of chiefs, 
soldiers, peusanta, strangers rush up tumultuously, 








meanwhile carelessly talking to his 
tho embassy es him, but wea 
the embassy: ‘ge glowing eyes, 
peaks quickly and with Selina 

“Tell Mirambo from me that I do not want his gifta, 
but T must have tho head of his man who slew: 
chi fs 

ibar to Uganda, or I will hunt him up with more 
‘Waganda than there are trees in his country. Gol” 

Another party now comes up. A chief ia dend, and 
they wish to know who shall succeed him, and ey 
have brought his sons along with them, that the 
Emperor may make bis choice, 

Mtesa smiles and asks his chiefs to name the suc 
cessor. One names Bugomba, another Taniziwa, another 
Kaseje, another Sempa. ‘The chiefs fail to agree, and 
Mtesa asks playfully, “Which shall be chief?” whore 
upon the majority name Taniziwa ag elected, after which 
we have to hear the “‘Twiyanzis" of the favoured one, 
and his ardent vows of allegiance to the Emperor. 

Just at this moment appears a long procession of 
fomales, old and young, at the sight of whom the 
Emperor rises to his feet, and his examplo is followed 
hy all. Curious to know who they are, we ask, and 
are fold that they are descendants of Kamanya and 
Suna, wards and members of the imperial family. 
‘These Indies, it appears, know when to time their visite, 

4 ll 


and contriye to enter the levee late, as European ladies, 
to attract attention, are supposed to enter church late. 

‘As these ladies advance to the carpet, Mtesn greets 
each with a kind word, and after they are seated 
proceeds to them, seats himself in their laps, and em- 
braces one after another, In return for these im 
courtesies, they afterwards present him with live 
fowls, which he is compelled to receive with his own 
hands, and pass over to a chief to hold, that he may 
not appear to despise any of them, Surely if such 
a despotic monarch con condescend to be so affable and. 
kind to females, there must be some good in him, 

But the Emperor on this morning has caught a cold, 
and the watchful chiefs have been observing the little 
uneasiness, and forthwith balf a dozen rush forward 
prone on their knees, and offer their head-cloths, into 
‘which the imperial nose may relieve itself. 

‘The Emperor playfully draws back in his chair, and 
says, “Oh, I don't want all these,” 

* Well, take mine,” says one, 

“No, take mine, Kabuka; mine is white, and of fine 
oft cloth,” and Mtesa, prevailed upon by the whitenoss 
and softness of the texture, takes it, nnd relieves his 
afflicted nose, nnd then hands the cloth back to its 
owner, who rubs it together hard, as though he wished 
to punish well the eause of the aflliction. 

Snddenly from some place in the hall is heard a 
hawking sound, as from some one likewise afflicted with 
cold in the thront, and the eyes of the Emperor are 
quickly fixed on the porson; but the chief cry out 
indignantly, * Out, out with you, quick!” and, peremp- 
torily and sternly, half a dozen “ lords of the cord” seize 
upon the unfortunate and eject him in no gentle manner. 

After this interruption the tones of the native harp 
are heard, and the Emperor calls to the minstrel and 
Lids him play on his instrument, which the aecom- 




Psicsrwiecetes the cause; but they have en fore 
walled by th adroit and enger lords of tho 
have thrown their nooses round the man’s neck: 
strangling ier te naa te roe 
nerves have been somewhat disturbed 

cries the angry Emperor, and the 
is hauled away to receive such a punishment a will 
Jame him for a month. 

‘There is now heard a lowing of cattle, of fat beeves 
and milch-cows, in the court before the audience-hall, 
and aman advances, and after prostration and “ Twi- 
vyanais” saye he has brought a present from Mankorongo, 

ing of Usui. 

“Hm, See to them, Katckiro, and give oue to my 
toward Kacuta to dress ‘up, and let each chief have an 
ox to-day, and give ten to my bodyguard.” At this 
Tibernlity ll the chiefs rush meas cubase themselves 

tho dust, and cry aloud their forvid * Twiyancis.” 

‘The chiefs resume their seata after this exhibition of 
their gratitude, and a messengér arrives from the banks 
‘of the Victoria Nile, and relates, to the monarch’s sur 
prise, that Namionju, a petty prince near Unyoro, hns 
cast off his allegiance to him, and opened negotintions 
with Kaba Rega, king of Unyoro, 

On hearing tho messengar’s news, the Emperor 
exchims, his eyes expanding widely, and projecting, 
“What! ave all my people dead at Nakaranga? Have 
Ino chief, no people left, that Naraionju treats ape 

4 — | 


‘The answer is heard in the voices of the chiefs, who rs, 

spring to their feet simultaneously and rush out 
before the entrance of the audience-ball, seize their 
spears or walking-sticks, and call aloud on tho 
Emperor to behold and number his chiefa, and with 
wild impressive gestures toss their spears and arma on 
high until a stranger would fanoy that revolution 

their spears without and regain their seats, 

‘Then casting his eyes about him, he ecleots a fiery- 
looking young chief—Maoor-ugungu by name—who 
instantly darts forward from his seat, and prostrating 
himeelf exclaims, “ Kabaka, I am here,” 

“Go, Maoorsugungu, take five Watongoleh and 
their men, and eat up Namionja and his country,” 

Maoorugungu, prompt aa tinder upon receiving 
such on order, utters many “‘Twiynnais,” then springs 
to hia feet, and, seizing a couple of spears and a shield, 
throws himself into a heroic attitude with all the 
ardour of a true son of Murs, and cries aloud »— 

“Emperor, behold me! ‘The Emperor commands, 
and Namionju ehall die, and I will gather the spoil, 
I will cat the land up clean, ‘Twiyonsi-yanzi-yanzi- 
yanzi!” and so on ad infinitum, 

Tho Emporor rises, Tori the drummer beats the 
Jong roll on his dram, and all the chief's, courtiers, 
piges, claimants, messengers and strangers, start to 
their fect, The Emperor—without a word more— 
retires by a side door into the inner apartments, and 
‘the morning burzah is ended. 

‘Those curious to know further of the Emperor's life 
mst pass through a multitade of sharp-eyod, jealously 
watehful guards, pages, and executioners, i 
the court of the audience-hall, into the private courts, 
many of which they will find apparently of no use 






nd i 

af ejales 8 



to understand its extent, nature, and gem 
Lulamba, Damba, Lukomeh, 

—with the islands of Sessé, Lula 



wevered from the parent mountain which 4 
end so proudly into the sky ubove. 
Beyond this scene agnin we come to whare the 


= ae 


Boos: uy 
if i 2 fal 

unfaithful, and will desert, attracted by the 
Mresn and glowing descriptions of his liberality 
‘ome day, when he is about to congratulate h 
that he is more fortunate than others, he wi 
himself suddenly bereft of half or thre 1 


fe eal 

ie Ee 

igh ubale 

Wa! ai 

reasons, and you must 
Nearly ali the principal attendants nt the 

can write the Arabie letters, ‘The Emperor and m 
feet cncewriens 

ity, juently employ it to 3 
one another, or to strangers ata distance. The 
which they use for this are very thin smooth 
cotton-wood. Mtesa possesses several score of tl 
which are written his “books of wisdom,” as h 

Enel _ 

plantation is well known, 
_ 4, Tho stems are sometimes used for { 





27 = Peay S ai a 
HT ert ge 3 


j a2 Fd 



2 f 

| the vill 

In the afternoon T called to 


buzi’s force 



ait FEM atl 

Tho Daily Telegraph and New York Merl oxpedition 
pated 2 ee 

Following this little army there were about 
women and children, giving a grand total of n 
2800 soula. 

With Colonel Sekajugu were four men of 

ara, who were of a remarkably light eomplexian, 


rT . BA WD. § 

fee rig i 


Uhyoro sweet 
et with such other vegetables as f 
Tt was an amusing scene to soe the haste wit 
the soveral detachments rushed about to dig 

crossed the Kat 

ni il 

‘The next day we 


oppose us; for u ; 


a the night of the oh to 88° Fab tls old 
ture being, no doubt, caused by night winds fi 



Bennett mountain. Fogs, ‘the fared November 
foga in London, provailed a8 a rule every morning, 
rendering the earlier part of exch day damp, disagree 
able, and cheerless. It was so thick that a man’s form 
could not be seen at the distance of fifty yards, and 
horns and drums alone guided us on our march, During 
the afternoons the atmosphere slightly cleared, and the 
sun, struggling in the western skies from behind deep 


banks of sullen clouds, endeavoured to announce to ws 
that the day was far spent. 

On the 9th Janoary 1876 the drums sounded for 
tho march two hours before sunrise, for wo had a long 
journey before us, and Usimba, the country of chiof 
Ruigi, was to be entered on this day, 

Until daylight we journeyed along, or not far from, 
the Rnsango, ite many falls, rapids, and cascades tolling 
of the rapid rush and furious plunge of the river to- 
wards Muta Nzigé. Dawn found us in a singularly 
wild and beantifally picturesque country, the Switear- 
and of Africa, 

VOL. 1—28- 


Sonwary ® 


» = 

pedi into 3 
stragglers. One fellow, named Andrew, of th 
Mission at Zanzibar, had thrown his load 
plunged into the bushes to. sleep his v 
‘4 rescue party of twenty men had to be sent 
miles from camp to hunt up news of him, 

tion was held next day, at which thors resolved to 

id out that night 200 men to capture a few priconers, 
thn ere 

‘ten prisoners were captured, 
ceiving gifts of cloth and beads, were released, to 
convey ae news to their respective chiefs that the 

that he would occupy maligne et 
‘but would build his | 
into which the nati 

outwards, whence night 
observe, without being 
‘The noxt day an answer was, 

This declaration of war unsettled the n 
Waganda chiefs, principally the inferior 
the bodyguards of Mtesn, and a stormy m 

i i fi 


C re 


‘were. seut, under Lakota a 
"captain, 40 the Take, sith ina 

at sree a5 
sce eee 



‘onthe lake.” @ 


rt of men or 




iS aH 22 ed 





ce | 

Fag i: 


eee and if you #0 fi 
to mo two days, I will give one-fourth of my 
nay. I will give one-half of all beads, wire, 
‘have to you, with which you may reward 
friends. Be not afraid of the Wanyoro; to 
age Mine tte ts on ee ieee 

to certain death, have spoken,” 
Afier 1 Tittle panse, dusingg whieh. ho 
his people, Sambusi said 
you are att friond, the Emperor's friend, and 
Uganda, and I want todo my duty. 

cowardly aa 2 native of Uganda, Por your : 
thank you; to-night I will give you my answer 

ze poy te reo 
a 1 
fede wot 

not follow them. 

than half of this Expedition will follow him, and 
cannot prevent it,” 
“Well,” I replied, this is my decision, T 
to explore this Inke. When T started from U 
I doubted if I could do it unaided by Wag 



‘The effect of my letter on Mtesa and his o 
ché informed me a few days later, when he 
‘at Charugawa, was one of shame, : 
Kachéché was called to the Burzah, 
ia a loud voice all th tna een 
and myself since had met at Laugi 
Mitesa and hie chia ohivfs sted intently, the recital 
‘hy violent exelnmations and ominous ejacu 
the Emperor. 

When Kachéché hnd ended, Mtesa said, # D 
now how I om shamed by my people? This 



fete cant danion eat outs Rs 
Becta aon rasa Bs 



sF8 Zao 


scimitar, which is venerated 
fly, nd th avord of the founder of 

All the peopl ee fo about 
different from Dre order 

Wanya-Ruanda, and 
The etolacfia Vehdnity ae uo o 



dissolving in the heat, and their 
were ns taut asa drumhend, ‘Their eyes 
and beaming and lustrous with life, yet | 
gentleness of expression. 

might have obtained from any of theese royal boys um 
a dark model for another status to rival the classic eas 
Autinous, . 

As we were followed by the youths, who welcomed 
us with » graceful courtesy, the appropriate couplet 
came to my mind— 

“ Thice b 1 that, roeont of blood, 
Frum losis es ther ai fo” 

‘We were soon ushered into the hut wherein Ru- 
manika sat expectant, with one of the kindlieat, most 
paternal smiles it, would be possible to conceive, 


I confess to have been as affected by the first 
glance at this venerable and gentle pagan as though I 
gazed on the serene and placid fice of some Chri 
patriarch or saint of old, whos memory the Churah 
still holds in reverence, Hin fhoe reminded me of a 
deep still well; the tones of his voice were so calm 
that unconsciously they compelled me to imitate him, 
while the guick, nervous gestures and the bold voice 
of Sheikh Tiscsee, scoming entirely out of place, jarred 
upon me, 

Itwas no wonder that the peremptory and imperi- 

-_ | 


ie fr 

anything about the geography of the count 


Eas ial 


forward with eager attention, 

what Roman in 


‘The bout-raco was soon over; it wus on 
800 yards, to Kankorogo Point. ‘There 
difference in the speed, but it 
‘The native eanoomen, 
paddles, strained themselves with an 
stimulated by the shouts of thelr e 

* This Inko roveived this namo from 
‘Groh us coupeain, thought ft raat ‘Wind 


but. the constant flip-flap of the pay 
with complaints that they were unable t¢ 
Teard for an hour or two, They then | 
damp, and finally wet, for their beds i 
tho depths below the papyrus, and 
ppelled at last to come into the bont, 








‘Our route lay north along the crest of a 
series Kati jand we 
we grassy ridges, 
mountain summits, and grassy 

was lonth to wound unnecessnrily, or throw away a 

The next day, at § as, near the end of the wv 
we cane to Meruré Lake, which is about two m 
long, and thence, crowing threo different 
arrived at Kiwandaré mountain, and from its 
5600 feot above the ma, obtained a tolorably 
‘view of the triple cone of Ufumbiro, in a 

west direction, Mag. I should estinnte the | is 
Hom Kiwandaeé to Gfoubirebaleabt 
and about sixty miles from the mountain 

Naigé from » native of Usongora, wi 
Kawanga with Sckajugu, one of the 
accompanied us to Bentrice Gulf. 

possessed a horn 2 fei Langs ited 
Tike point below, a stunted horn, 9 
to have hnd a tussle with 

‘angwana and Wanyombu 
the utmost gravity that the 
thinoceros frequently, because 

ae aha 

rah Point 
IME in 

id Bere ernie 


tained, und we return a decided 
not satisfied with the answer, and 
‘Throats in the free, uninhabited 

abated goad until we find ourselves 
Tanmbiro, rejoiced to find that we 
dangerous king. 

ta track Wea eo bravely fehl 


of Urangwa, On the 18th April, a march of fiftoon apm 
talon enabled ns to reach the capital, Ndeverva, another Seat 
largo stockaded village, also provided with “markmnen's "| 
nests,” and surrounded by a fosse, 

We were making capital marches, The petty kings 
though they exacted a small interchange of gifts, which 


(rom a photograph by the Author.) 

compelled mo to disburse cloth a little more frequently 
than was absolutely necessary, were not insolent, nor #0 
extortionate as to prevent our intercourse being of the 
most friendly character. But on the day we arrived at 
Urangwa, lo! there came up in haste, while we were 
sociably chatting together, n messenger to tell ua that 
the phantom, the bugbear, the terror whose name 
ailences the children of Unyamwesi and Usukuma, and 
makes women’s hearts bound with fear; that Mirambo 

if nat a gs 
Ste aie ale 

Tt was two ilar a half in ei 

probably contained over a thousand 

huts, and a population of about 6000. 
‘The prosent. king's namo is Né 

the gon of Mukaka, who dia cn 

Too young himself 


the country round, two elders, or Manyapara, act as 
regents during hia minority. 

‘Wo were shown to a peculiar-shaped hut, extremely 
like an Abyssinian dwelling. ‘The height of the doar- 
way was 7 feet, and from the floor to the top of the 
conical roof it was 20 fect. The walls were of inter 
woven sticks, plastered over neatly with brown elay. 
Tho king's house was 30 fect high from the ground to 
the tip of the cone, and 40 feet in diameter within ; but 
the total diameter including the circular fence or palisnde 
that supportod the broad eaves, and enclosed a gallery 
which ran round the house, was 54 feet, 


Owing to this peculiar construction a desperate body: 
of 150 men might from the circular gallery sustain a 
protracted attack from a vastly superior foe, and pro- 
bably repel it. 

Ndega is a relative of Mirambo by marringe, and ho 
soon quioted all uneasy minds by announcing that the 
finnows man who was now advancing upon Serombo had 
just concluded a peace with the Arabs, and that there- 
fore no trouble wns to be apprebended from his visit, 
it being eolely a friendly visit to his young relative. 

Naturally we were all anxious to Behold the “ Mars 
of Africa,” who since 1871 bas made his name feared 

must be older than he ia, Hr is a very nice : 
well dressed, quite likean Arab, He wears the 
fez, and ‘lol coat of an Arab, and 

sates aeaee slept At ae 

ure very white, erie lettre 

grea ! 

The shrill Lu-lu-lu’s, prolonged and loud, wore still 
maintained by the women, who entertained a great 
respect for the greatest king in Unyamwezi. 

Presently Manwa Sera, the chief captain of the 
Wangwana, came to my hut, 
to tiie three young men 

Rua Eee oe 

#0 no more lest i tae 
coffince—handsomely dreesed 
jo fine red and. Hue cloth 
‘coats, and snowy white shirts, 
with ample turbans around 
their heads, They were con- 
ental captains of Mira 
bo's bodyg: 

at prechaes unde his sn as Rysuauek ots of 
Tans to the white man," said ae" 
the principal of them. “He hopes the white man is 
friendly to him, and that he does not share the prejudices 
of the Arnbs, and believe Miranbo a bad man. If it 
is agreeable to the white man, will he send words of 
Peace to Mirambo 2" 

“Tell Mirambo,” I replied, “thnt T am enger to see 
him, and would be glnd to shake hands with «0 great 
# man, and os I have made strong friendship 

Mtesa, Rumunika, and all the kings along the road 





othe winds, while warshing 


teal ; 



qn Bees i 


: ial 


water, aceldentally heard our Watuta visitors. goesiph 

together. Tho dialect and necent sounding Posie to 
her, she listened, and a few moments after slie waa 
herself volubly discussing with them the geography 
of the locality inhabited by the Mafitté between Take 
‘Nyassa and Tanganika. Tt was mainly from this little 
Gircumstance—confirmed by other informants, Arab, 


Wangwana, and Wanyamwezi—that the above brief 
aketch of the wanderings of the Watata has been ob- 

“Mono-Matapa,” that great African word, which, 
from its antiquity and ite persistent appearance on omy 
mapé—occupying various positions to suit the vagaries 
‘of various cartographers and the hypotheses of various 
learned travellors—has now become almost classic, beara 
a distant. relation to the tribe of the Watuta, 


i age ies 
Bn ay 


ay AEP 


‘informed oath that he had 
take wort of Uist, unnned By bok 7 
Mack Europeans! : 


{415} 723-9201 
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